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08/03/09(Mon)08:43 No.1104008"The
Food Network carries a whole slate of so-called dump-and-stir shows
during the day, and the network’s research suggests that at least some
viewers are following along. But many of these programs — I’m thinking
of Rachael Ray, Paula Deen, Sandra Lee — tend to be aimed at
stay-at-home moms who are in a hurry and eager to please. (“How good
are you going to look when you serve this?” asks Paula Deen, a Southern
gal of the old school.) These shows stress quick results, shortcuts and
superconvenience but never the sort of pleasure — physical and mental —
that Julia Child took in the work of cooking: the tomahawking of a fish
skeleton or the chopping of an onion, the Rolfing of butter into the
breast of a raw chicken or the vigorous whisking of heavy cream. By the
end of the potato show, Julia was out of breath and had broken a sweat,
which she mopped from her brow with a paper towel. (Have you ever seen
Martha Stewart break a sweat? Pant? If so, you know her a lot better
than the rest of us.) Child was less interested in making it fast or
easy than making it right, because cooking for her was so much more
than a means to a meal. It was a gratifying, even ennobling sort of
work, engaging both the mind and the muscles. You didn’t do it to
please a husband or impress guests; you did it to please yourself. No
one cooking on television today gives the impression that they enjoy
the actual work quite as much as Julia Child did. In this, she strikes
me as a more liberated figure than many of the women who have followed
her on television." |