Building a Pipe {Thrasher Mag} PRE-BUILDING PLANS Before you start building your ramp make sure that you read and understand these plans completely. You've got to have a good feeling for what you are about to tackle or you will probably end up with a mess. There are some important things to consider before you even decide what kind of ramp you are going to be building. There is almost nothing worse than starting off on a project and finding out half-way through that you're not going to be able to pull it off because you've blown-off or forgotten some important step along the way. This is a big undertaking, don't be embarrassed about asking for a little help. Ramps are now popping up all around the country at an amazing rate, chances are good that at least one ramp is already being ridden in your neighborhood. Go check out a ramp that's already built and see what kind of problems the owners have had with it, or get some good ideas for things to do with your own ramp. Also don't be too proud to ask dad or some other adult for help on the carpentry; every man alive likes to believe he is an accomplished builder and will usually jump at the chance to pound a few nails. If you get dad to help you, rather than letting the project turn out half-assed under his supervision, he will probably do all he can to make it turn out good. Who knows, if he really gets into it he might even float a few bucks towards the cost of materials. Then, when all the work is done he might appreciate more the idea of having this big wooden monster sitting in his backyard. You, on the otherhand, should have no problems appreciating this big wooden monster. Skate tough or stay in a coma. Enough planning, it's time to build some vertical terrain. First of all you must decide what your limitations are and how this will affect the ramp you are going to build. Limitation Aspect #1. Location-probably the most important thing to resolve; where are you going to put it? Ramps can virtually be built anywhere. We've seen ramps of every description built in backyards, fields, orchards, sidewalks, parking lots, rooftops, mountain sides and creek beds. First look at the obvious spots, like your own backyard or a tolerant friend's pad. Private property with permission is best for obvious reasons. Putting up a quarter pipe or lightweight structure is one thing, but sweating out a killer ramp only to have someone tell you to take it down is not happening. Warehouses, garages and the like are good sites because they are level, indoors and away from the elements (cops and neighbors). Check with your city or town officials in regard to public lands or park and recreation facilities that might be available. It is becoming more common for local governments to take interest in the skateboarder's plight and build a public ramp, check into this idea with your own. Ideally, for a decent sized half-pipe like the one described in this book, you will want to build on a fairly large, flat cement surface (patio,parking lot, etc.) but a relatively level dirt or grass area will work fine. Be sure and check out local ordinances regarding construction, you might need a building permit for the ramp you have in mind. Keep in mind that this is going to be a permanent structure, once it's done you won't want to think about anything but the next session, so make sure your facts are straight before you follow through with the construction. In most cities, the ordinances require that the structure cover no more than a certain percentage of your yard, such as, 30% of the available open space. In many cases, making your ramp portable (or at least appear so) will help bypass many of the requirements, such as building permits, etc. Also, most city codes specify that no backyard structure can be higher than the highest point of the house. Check into it, once you know what must be done to build your ramp legally, you will most likely have to abide by some civil laws as well. It is very rare that all surrounding neighbors will put up with extended night sessions, trash floating around or boards shooting into their pool or pegging their backyard pooch. Because of the brash nature of skating and skaters themselves, it is wise to inform your immediate neighbors of the possibility of such goings on, and get a feeling for what you can and cannot do. Believe me, if you push your limits with them, the ramp will not last long because the law will side with them almost every time. Limitation Aspect #2. Type of ramp you can afford to build. So you've found the perfect spot; some old lady with a ranch outside of town craves the energy of youth and has agreed to give you free reign of an acre of land with a nice swimming hole and rows of pregnant apple trees, no problems there, but now there's the question of materials. What do you have to build with? The materials you are able to get your hands on will basically tell you what kind of ramp you'll soon be ripping. Unless you have 20 or 30 sheets of plywood lying around or a large stack of 2 x 4s you will probably be spending close to $1000 for your basic 8' wide, 8' radius transition half-pipe. Plywood isn't cheap and even though 2 x 4s do grow on trees they aren't just lying around, but there are ways of getting some free wood. Ripping off wood or shopping at "the midnight lumber store" can get you busted. We've been hearing some real nightmares about young thrashers getting caught with a load and getting to see the legal system work first hand. The amount of lumber you'll need for your ramp will probably constitute grand theft in most lawbooks so watch it. Don't get stopped before you've even started. Check your own backyard or garage for wood and ask friends or neighbors if they have any. Also, hang around local construction sites and beg for cut-of ends and various scraps, every little bit gets you one step closer. Wood is expensive if you have to buy it outright, but it's plentiful enough that you can find a bargain if you shop around. Check the phone book for salvage yards that deal in used wood. Most of the time they'll have all you need at a fraction of the cost. You may have to pull a few nails but it's worth it. When dealing with these guys try to to bargain for your final price, you might save yourself even more bucks by not agreeing to the first price they give you. Once you have assembled all you can feasibly scrounge, it's time to start putting it together. The hard part is over now, you realize your limitations and you must now decide what type of ramp you're going to build. You may find that because of one thing or another you are limited to building a smaller ramp or quarter-pipe rather than a full-blown half-pipe. Don't be discouraged if the ramp forecast looks bleaker than you imagined before, almost any variation of most big ramp maneuvers can be pulled off on a smaller dimension ramp. Also, to the beginning verticalist, a smaller ramp is going to be helpful for training purposes and will keep you shredding until you can move up to big time. Use what you can to ride what you've got; real skaters ignore limitations. CONSTRUCTION: Banked Ramps There is no reason why any skater who craves vert should be deprived of a vertical wall or bank to skate. Even if you are flat broke there are things you can do. In reality all you need is a 3/4" thick piece of plywood and you're in business. Whenever you get the urge to skate a bank just drag out that old piece of plywood and "set it up." If you can get your hands on some 2 x 4s, try expanding on the banked ramp theme by building a frame for your piece of plywood. Starting with a "banked ramp" is a good way for the beginning skater/carpenter to get into basic wall riding and ramp construction at the same time. Quarter Pipes A quarter-pipe is just what it sounds like, a quarter piece of round pipe. If you can rustle up at least four or more 4' x 8' sheets of plywood and a decent supply of 2 x 4s you can throw together a small quarter-pipe that will carry you up to vertical. A cash outlay here will still run around $75 for new wood. As far as transition from horizontal to vertical goes there are several ways of constructing a quarter-pipe. One method is to build an L-shaped framework similar to the one shown for the banked ramp, except that you create the curve for the transition with 2 x 4s. By cutting and fitting lengths of 2 x 4 into place you can make a solid curve and a foundation for the plywood skating surface. (Fig. 1) The thickness of the plywood for making this type of ramp should be no more than 3/8". Using two or three layers of 1/4" ply is recommended here for the optimum transition. Another method of quarter pipe construction involves the use of plywood templates to form the transition and 2 x 4 cross bracing to support the skating surface. If you go ahead with this type of design, using the template method, you'll need to look ahead to the plans for building a half-pipe for instructions on how to make templates using the string/compass method. (Fig. 2) Regardless of the type of method you use to construct a quarter-pipe, the radius of the transition should measure between 6' and 8'. Also because you are building a single sided ramp, you'll be pushing into the ramp from another surface such as the street or sidewalk. In this case you want a smooth connection between the street and where the will meet the asphalt, before you nail it down. Or, slap a thin strip of sheet metal down over the critical area, tack it with small nails and finish it.