[Formatted for printout/readout capable of displaying IBM graphic characters]
 
                      ± The Finer Points of Carding ±
                      Written 09/23/87 by The Technic
 
In this file, I'll give you:
 
 - A brief overview of the "basics" of carding
 - Help on keeping a high order/receive ratio
- Help on deciphering carbons
- A small, yet effective and helpful, list of banks and tips
 + Anything extra I think of while typing this out
 
 
THE BASICS OF CARDING - not by The Metallian (where is he these days?)
 
1. Go "trashing" at your local mall, or basically at any store that accepts
credit cards such as Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Choice, or Discover.
 
2. Piece together what you've got, and copy to a piece of paper (or even type
them into the computer and print them out so you've got an organized, legible
list to use later).
 
3. Go through catalogs you're interested in, and make a list of:  Store,
Phone Number, Cards Accepted, Items You Want, and Prices of those items.
 
4. Call up the stores you are going to order from (preferable from a pay
phone) and place orders for the stuff you want [I won't go into this part
further; pick up on this point in Carding I, Carding II, Carding III [by
The Metallian] or the carding file by Dawn Treader]
 
5. Go by the houses after UPS has delivered and pick up your goodies and take
them home.  
 
Obviously, the last 5 points were VERY basic..  This file is for people who
have tried carding, been successful, and wish to card more stuff - and at the
same time keep the risk of getting caught at its very minimum.
 
ð The Finer Points ð
 
Starting off with trashing, first find out what day(s) garbage is picked up
from the mall/store you are planning to hit.  Go trashing at around midnight,
the nights before the garbage pickups.  This way, you should score (well,
depending on the area you live in -- I live in Los Angeles) maybe 200 or so
in a night if you're lucky and the store has been busy.  Try to hit stores
that are in your area -- if you do, a majority of the cards should be of
people in your area.  Don't just grap anything black.  Take along a mini-
maglite and check to see if you are taking an employee payment carbon, a
store-to-bank money transfer, or some ordering information.  If you're in
heaven (a dumpster FILLED with credit card carbons), don't even bother with
tiny pieces smaller than 1/4 of a carbon.  On the other hand, if you're not
getting much from the dumpster, get ALL the pieces you can lay your hands on.
A good thing to take along on these nights of trashing is a few large ziplock
bags.  Paper bags will tend to rub some of the carbon-copy material off and
may ruin a few good ones.  Good stores to try to trash at are jewelry stores,
clothing stores, and electronic stores; Jewelry & electronic stores usually
have large amounts purchased on cards, thus meaning a high(er) credit limit
on the carbons you find; clothing stores are good for sheer quantity of 
carbons.  One more point about trashing - it's good to hit places where kids
are hired -- kids usually don't tear up carbons, and when they do, they do
a half-ass job of it.  It really isn't such a good idea to get carbons during
store hours, or have friends do it for you; security and cameras in the 
ceiling are getting to be more and more common.
 
When you are home, make sure you are alone.  Lock your room door just to be
sure that no one surprises you and sees what you are doing.  Dump out one of
those zip-lock bags onto your floor.  A tracing table is PERFECT for putting
carbons together.  Make three piles: one for left halves, one for right 
halves, and the third for pieces.  If you find a whole one, write it down on
a list and immediately throw it away.  The information you want to get on a
card is the cardholder's name, the card number, type of card, issue date,
expiration date, bank number (if Mastercard), cardholder's phone number, and
the year in which the cardholder got his credit card (some say "84" before
the expiration date, others say "1984" in the lower right hand corner of the
card).  Also, note down any other special letters or numbers.  Contrary to
the belief of Dawn Treader, do not throw away any Visa cards with 4-3-3-3
digit blocks.  They do NOT usually have unusual credit limits as Dawn Treader
says in his carding file.  A good thing to have around when piecing the
carbons together is a roll of clear plastic tape.  Tape pieces as you figure
them out, and write them down as you get enough information.  One thing I
forgot to point out is that it's good to write down how much the purchase was
for.  There are two reasons behind this:  If the person spent $2900 on one
purchase of jewelry, the person has a high credit limit, high enough for most
of our purposes.  The other aspect of it, though, is that $2900 are already
spent and maybe the person won't have much more in his account.  Most likely,
though, the person has a credit limit of $5,000 or $10,000 when he spends 
like he is.  Don't throw away the cards with women's names on them, either.
When you're all done, put all the carbons into an opaque container and get
rid of them quickly.  Parents these days might go through your garbage from
time to time.  Throw them into someone else's garbage can.  
 
With your "partial" (explained later) list of cards, get a phone book out 
and start looking the people up.  If you got a man's name on the card, just
look up the guy.  Otherwise, if you got a woman's name on the card, look up
the last name, and (if you've got it), look up the phone number and cross-
reference it to find the man's name (husband).  If you've got just a woman's
name, without the phone number, look up the last name and call up each of
the ones it might be (skipping over ones that have the guy and his wife 
listed out in the phone book) until you get one that has the wife you want.
They'll undoubtedly ask "Who is calling?" and "What's this in regards to?".
Just tell them something like "This is Phil Drummond calling.  I'm a friend
of Donna", and when they say "Hold on.." just hang up.  You've got what you
were looking for.  Sometimes, people have their numbers unlisted when they
make a lot of money.  Just look in the phonebook from 2 or 3 years ago, and
you'll find the ones that just have their city listed, or are no longer in
the phone book.  If the person is new, call up information and try to get
a phone number or address out of the information operator.  Otherwise, just
engineer it as well as you can and try to get the person's address from him.
(Lines such as "I found a camera with your name on it and I wanted to return
it" sometimes work, but generally, your out of luck.)  If you can't get 
enough information on your cardholding victim, cross off the information.
Don't worry, there are lots of people with cards around.
 
To complete the address, get the zip code as well.  Visit a few of your local
banks and pick up their applications for credit cards.  Usually, if you look
on the cover of the application, or inside, you can figure out that the first
four digits correspond to the issuing bank.  You might see that a Visa with
its first four digits 4024 has been issued by Bank of America.  Another key
to Bank of America cards is the symbol BA (really close together, though),
along with a number.  A card might say BA0 or BA7.  You know by these that
the cards were issued at Bank of America #0 and #7.  Second four usually
corresponds to what type of card; 4024 0046 is generally a *CV card; a card
with 4024 0238 is generally a *PV card.  In case you don't know exactly what
C and P stand for, they abbreviate Classic and Preferred.  Some other signs
to look for are: WF after the exp. date on a Mastercard, meaning Wells Fargo,
or a MB on a Mastercard meaning Mitsubishi Bank.  A few numbers to look for 
are:
    4211U.S. Life
    5211 U.S. Life
    5204 Security Pacific
    5277 First Interstate
    4316 Home Savings of America
    5410 Wells Fargo
    4024 Bank of America
    5254 Bank of America
    4217 Citibank
    5217 Citibank
    4317 Imperial Savings
 
Now, start calling up the people who look most prospective, at 9:00 AM, 
11:00 AM, 12:00 Noon, 2:00 PM, and 3:00 PM.  Keep all of this information
on a data sheet along with the card information and addresses.  When you
have about a week of data on your sheet(s), you're ready to get some stuff.
Pick out the most prospective people on the list (people who are home the
least, people who don't have kids, single people, high credit, etc).Make
sure that all of your target cardholders don't live in gated communities.
 
When browsing your collection of catalogs, pricelists, and other brochures,
pick out the lowest price you find for the item you want.  Don't think
"Gee, I'm not spending my own money, so why shop around for a bargain?".
The lower the cost, the greater the chance is that you'll get it, in most
cases.  Whenever possible, order something from an advertisement in one of
your magazines instead of from some catalog of specialty items you've sent
off for (such as compact discs, paint guns, or radar jammers).  More than
likely, you're the only one in your area who has requested literature from
the company you hit, and you're the only one in your area on their mailing
list.. they might give you a call, or maybe the authorities instead.. you
never know.  Always choose the smallest company you can find.  If they've 
got a tiny one square inch advertisement in your magazine, you've found a
prospective merchant victim.  Make up a nice list, maybe on your computer,
of the companies and the products you want.  Put all the information that
you'll need for ordering the items on this list.
 
Now, go down to a payphone and place your orders.  Preferably, have the items
sent UPS Blue.  When the merchant asks you for your name, give him the card-
holder's name, verbatim, or the husband of the name on the carbon you got.
Try to have a middle initial for the guy if he wasn't on the card, and if the
woman on the card had a full middle name, and you can't get a full middle 
name for the husband, discard the card.  Give the cardholder's address.  For
a phone number, give the payphone you're calling from.  After the order, wait
there, next to the payphone so that no one else can use it.  If no one calls
for about an hour, take out your pliers/snips/bolt cutter and cut the cable
going to the handset on the payphone.  From now on, the number will always be
busy.  If you are REALLY daring, hook onto the B-Box at the victim's house 
and order from there.  Give that number as your phone number - one advantage
to doing this is that sometimes, the company looks you up via directory
assistance.  Of course, be sure that no one is at home when you do your 
ordering from the person's B-Box.  Something I forgot to say is that it's 
best to order before noon, the company's time, and on Friday.
 
Calculate exactly when the package(s) should be there.  Walk up to the house,
calmly, and knock on the door.  DON'T JUST GRAB THE PACKAGE!  Many operations
are set up nowadays to catch carders who do just that.  If no one comes to 
the door, go ahead and take it.  The police / forgery fraud division can only
convict you on that one count if you actually pick up the package.  If it's
a large package, don't carry it too far.  Stash it in the bushes of the next
house down the street and come back for it at night time.  Another thing:
don't park/drive by the house.  If you're on foot and a pretty fast runner,
you CAN get away.  Try going through yards -- don't just run down the street!
Try going around houses and emerging on another street.  Do everything in a
footchase as fast as you can, and as carefully as you can.  If you go up to
the house, knock, and a policeman arrests you at gunpoint, keep your story
straight.  You were looking for (make up a last name) the Joneses house and
you stopped to ask directions.  If you are pulled in to the police station,
ADMIT NOTHING!!  That's the only way they can convict you.  Of course, don't
have your list of goodies, cards, etc. on you when you pick up the packages.
 
Other advice:  Don't tell anyone what you're doing - not even your best 
friend.  When you do that, you are no longer in control of your future.  A
lot of people got busted in my area because one person was caught and 
informed on 9 others.  All 10 people were convicted.  The reason this 
happened was that they were stupid enough to tell others what they were
doing (bragging about it, even..) and that they were panicked into 
confessing and bringing others into the matter by informing (they say they'll
let you off if you tell them the whole story and who else you know who does
it..  if you believe those lies, you've lost.)
  
THE AUTHOR OF THIS FILE TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY POSSIBLE ILLEGAL
ACTIONS THAT ARISE FROM THE INTERPRETATION OF THIS MATERIAL.  THIS FILE
HAS BEEN WRITTEN WITH NO INTENT FOR THE ABOVE ACTIVITIES TO ACTUALLY TAKE
PLACE.  PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
 
The Technic
 

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