DarkStorm's
                                 Book
                                  of
                         Compiled Articles on
                          Destruction, Crime,
                                 and
                          Other Illegal Acts












                "Are You Ready For A Good Time?"


















Version II.IX                                            May 1991


Page i





                            Pretext:

     The author and co-authors of this document, and authors of
the enclosed articles take absolutely no responsibilyity for the
actions taken by the readers of this file. The readers are
assumed to be of whole mind and competancy, so as not to warrant
the punishment of anyone for committing any act herein described.
     This file was composed as a documentary article, and in no
way reflects the author's views on law enforcement, its officers,
or its purpose. This article is an informative look at the other
side. The readers do not have to nor are expected to take part in
any of the acts herein described.
     Inside this file one will find many detailed descriptions on
how to get anything you ever wanted for free, how to make others
pay for your goodies, how to destroy any thing and anyone at
will, and how to reek havoc upon the populus. The author does not
condone this sort of action, and suggests that those who really
want to do this should read no further, and go see a doctor.
Those who shun the thought of my even compiling this file should
stop fucking reading this and delete it, since it won't do well
sitting next to all your other pristine files on how to track
hackers, and how to protect yourself from setting eyes upon
pornography(*). 
     I hereby denounce this article and have decided to delete it
from my drive, hopefully before I get the urge to upload it to
the unsuspecting populus. Those concerned with my actions, rest
your eyes, type: DEL DARK19-?.TXT  at the DOS prompt, and get
some sleep.
     
     Now that those assholes are gone, everyone else come back,
all others should read on(including the guys I told to see a
doctor). Enjoy this documentation, it is the result of many
sleepless nights, many hours of downloading, buffering, and CHATs
to get the necessary information for you all. By the time you
read this I will probably have about 40-60k more of texts to add
to the file, as I have sitting in front of me a few articles on
jailbreak, car theft, atombombs (<--most humorous article, a must
read.), radar guns, unemployment checks while you still have a
job, free food, anti-police warfare, phreaking(@), knife
fighting, the making of viruses (comes complete with a starter
kit/file) etc. I'm sure you'll all enjoy these, but for now, just
read the ones here, it will take you long enough as it is.

(*) oh yeah, PORNOGRAPHY--->definition--from 'porno-graphos'
Greek or something for 'the writing of the prostitutes'. Nice
writing I assume.  
(@) There are some articles on phreaking here, but I have
more....
Page ii







                             Pretext
                             -------
                             (cont.)

     
     Read the articles carefully on phreaking and on hacking, it
is important that you do not get caught trying out any of these
things. There are some non-hacker/pirate articles here, such as
the noise filter to rid yourself of linenoise forever, but I felt
it was important to the hacker, and even to the amatuer. 
     Most all of the articles enclosed can be done with little
expended money, some more than others. The only articles that do
not say how to build them, such as the HBO decoder and the RADAR
jammer are stored as .ZIP files in the DRKSTRM?.ZIP. These are
for you to read, and decide whether or not you want to spend the
money to get them. I would assume that the guys have been shut
down, so I have been looking for a replacement for the RADAR text
(I already have a couple of HBO texts on how to make em.)
     The only other stuff in here that claims to tell how to
build something that doesn't is the couple of articles on Blue
Boxing, (#'s 1-3), they are VERY informative to the newcomer, and
I left them ther for the reading, besides, the texts on how to
build the Pearl Box and a bunch of others will allow you to make
the Blue Box tones. Some of my own advice for you: Make the Gold
Box, NEVER EVER make a Blotto Box, unless you wish to get a
lawsuit shoved so far up your asshole that you'll be tasting it
in your mouth for years to come. And unless you're extrememely
demented, don't make a Urine Box.
     I am looking for the file "Jane's All The World's Boxes", if
anyone has it, please upload it to any BBS I'm on, I would like
to include it in my next issue of DRKSTRM. It has many many more
boxes that are not listed here, nor anywhere else to my
knowledge. (To the authors of Jane's ATWB, I only plan to use a
few of the better ones, I will not include it all.) [Still
looking....]
     The HBO file on page 123 works great. I use it now, and it's
fine. 
     Also, if you have any intention of doing anything mentioned
in this documnet, read the articles on it carefully. As in the
instance of the two Carding texts, the first says how to do it,
but yet, if you read the second one, you will realize that had
you tried it now, you would probably be sitting in a dingy cell
with a big Samoan named Biff who wants to make you his wife.
     Go nuts!
     Have a Hell of a time!

Page iii





                        Table of Contents
                        ----- -- --------

Subject:                                               Page(s):
-------                                                -------

Pretext................................................ii-iii
Table of Contents......................................iv-vi
Special Thanks To:.......................................vii
Preaking and Hacking:
     Bell Trashing.......................................1-2
     Blue Boxing.........................................3-5
     Better Homes and Blue Boxing File #1................6-8
     Better Homes and Blue Boxing File #2................9-15
     Better Homes and Blue Boxing File #3...............16-20
     Red Boxing...........................................21
     Hacker's Atlas (By: The Wyvern)....................22-26
  How To Build Various Boxes:
     Noise Filters......................................27-29
     Neon Box.............................................30
     White Box..........................................31-32
     Black Box..........................................33-35
     Urine Box..........................................36-37
     Blotto Box.........................................38-40
     Beige Box..........................................41-44
     Aqua Box...........................................45-48
     Cheese Box File #1...................................49
     Cheese Box FIle #2...................................50
     Brown Box..........................................51-52
     Gold Box...........................................53-54
     Crimson Box........................................55-56
     Pearl Box..........................................57-58
     Silver Box.........................................59-61
     Red Box..............................................62
     Green Box............................................63
The Book of Unlawfuls (By: Shadowspawn):
     Section I -- Bombs.................................64-65
     Section II -- Hacking................................66
Lock Picking:
     Combination Locks..................................67-68
     Door Knobs....(2 Files)............................69-75
     Padlocks.............................................76  
Weird Drugs.............................................77-78
House Breaking............................................79
Demolition Files (By: King Arthur):
     Number 1...........................................80-81
     Number 2...........................................82-84

Page iv






                       Table of Contents 
                       ----- -- --------
                             (cont.)

Subject:                                               Page(s):
-------                                                -------

Bombs + Chemicals:
     House-Hold Equivelences for Chemicals..............85-86
     Misc. Compounds (By: The Prowler)..................87-88
     Black Powder.......................................89-90
     Fire Bombs, Napalm, etc............................91-92
     Nitrogylcerine.....................................93-94
     Misc. Demolitions, Flares, Fuels, etc.............95-101
     Moltov Cocktail.....................................102  
The Anarchist's Micro-Cookbook (By: Maelstrom).........103-105
Cars:
     How to Hotwire a Car................................106
     How to Fuck one up..................................107
Terror/ism:
     Electronic Terrorism..............................108-110
     Harmless Terror...................................111-112
Carding:
     Carding Text #1...................................113-114
     New Info on Carding...............................115-119
Free Shit:
     Change..............................................120
     Postage...........................................121-122 
     HBO.................................................123
     HBO Revised.........................................123b
     HBO + Free PAY TV.................................124-128
     Cable TV Hacking.................................128b-128
     3-Way Teleconferencing..............................129  
     Horses..............................................130
Frequencies:
     Bugs, Taps, Mikes.................................131-132
     Federal Frequencies...............................133-136
     Code Words........................................137-138
     Common 10 Codes (ie; 10-4)..........................139 
     Quick Notes on Frequencies..........................140
Info on Hacking/Pirate Groups:
     Information on Hacker Groups......................141-142
     Electronic Hacker Magazines.......................143-144
     Printed Hacker/CU Magazines.......................145-146
     Misc. Catalogs on Crime/CU/Hacking etc............147-151


Page v



                        Table of Contents
                        ----- -- --------
                             (cont.)

Subject:                                               Page(s):
-------                                                -------

Info on Haking/Pirate Groups: (cont.)
     Hacker BBS's etc....................................152
     The Butler's Disclaimer.............................153
Last Minute Additions:
     Excerpts from 'Steal This Book':
          People's Chemistry...........................154-155
          Fuses..........................................156
          Coin/Bill Fraud..............................157-158
          Free Calls/Elimentary Red Boxing...............159
Enclosure Notes:
     Enclosed Hz-Generator and Misc. Texts...............160

     One Final Note to All From DarkStorm................161






























Page vi






                       Special Thanks To:
                       -----------------


     BAH, JDS, Andersen, Streak, Gunner, McCarthy, Flare,
Starburst (AKA Mark Taverns), and Hayes.
                    \______Not his real name boys, a handle OK?
                              He's insane, not Stupid.



                    An Extra Note of Thanks:
                    -----------------------


     To the United States of America, for allowing me the freedom
of expression, that of speech, and that of the press, which thus
granted me the right to publish this article. (Sort of.)
     {Not like I wouldn't have published it if it were illegal}
     But thanks anyway; it's the thought that counts.



                     One Last note (I Hope)
                     ----------------------
     Most of the BBS numbers have been left attached to the
files, that is, accept for the Police Station, which I think only
appears once, but no matter, you can still call most of these
BBS's even if all their articles are not properly denoted. 
     You can find most of these articles, plus many more on any
of the BBS's mentioned in this file, and on many others not
mentioned here. Many good BBS's have message sections devoted to
Law and Lawlessness.



                             Oh Yeah
                             -- ----
     Almost forgot, this is a fairly good size article, so you
might want to use a Search program, or one with a Search (and
replace) key in it. Search in the forward direction from the
Table of Contents for 'Page ###' and it will get you there faster
than you can. In my next issue, or in a few at least, I will
divide it up a bit so you can load some of it, or discard or
whatever to make it better for you. (Did it this time....) 


Page vii                                                         

       

                    The Book Of The Unlawfuls
                           By: Shadowspawn

                          The Police Station
                             612-934-4880


                          -=] Section I [=-
                            -=] Bombs [=-
                            --- ----- ---

                        House Hold equivalants
                        ----- ---- -----------

Name                            Equivalant
----                            ----------
acetic acid                     vinegar
aluminum oxide                  alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate      alum
aluminum sulfate                alum
ammonium hydroxide              ammonia
carbon carbonate                chalk
carbon tetrachloride            cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride            bleaching powder
calcium oxide                   lime
calcium sulfate                 plaster of paris
carbonic acid                   seltzer
ethylene dichloride             dutch fluid
ferric oxide                    iron rust
glucose                         corn syrup
graphite                        pencil lead
hydrochloric acid               muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide               peroxide
lead acetate                    sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide                 red lead
magesium silicate               talc
magesium sulfate                Epsom salts
naphthalene                     mothballs
phenol                          carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate           cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate      chrome alum
potassium nitrate               saltpeter
sodium dioxide                  sand
sodium bicarbonate              baking soda
sodium borate                   borax
sodium carbonate                washing soda
sodium choride                  salt
sodium hydroxide                lye
sodium silicate                 water glass

Page 64



sodium sulfate                  glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate              photographers hypo
sulferic acid                   battery acid
sucrose                         cane sugar
zinc choride                    tinner's fluid
------------                    --------------




                          -=] Smoke Bomb [=-
                          --- ----- ---- ---

Mix:
 4 parts sugar
 6 parts potassium nitrate

Heat:
 over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container.
Before  it soldifies, put a few matches in for fuses.

 *One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick
cloud   of white smoke*


                                                                

                         -=] Generic bomb [=-
                         --- ------- ---- ---

1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and
then evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff
from a snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.

 *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 
               1/2  STICK OF DYNAMITE*









Page 65





                          -=] Section II [=-
                           -=] Hacking [=-
                           --- ------- ---

                       -=] Conferance calls [=-
                       --- ---------- ----- ---
*I recomend that you do this local*

To make a conference call with as many people you want, just call
the operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a conference
call."
Then give the (first) Names (not pirate names, ether) and the
phone #'s of the people you want to call And she'll do it.(hint:
make sure that the people you are callin are expecting it.
because its damn annoying to be talking to 3 people and having
the third be busy for the whole time


                     -=] Charge-a-call phones [=-
                     --- ------------- ------ ---

On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but dont have any coin
slots) take a hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and remove
the screw in the middle for an extention!

             

                          -=] Free calls [=-
                          --- ---- ----- ---

From a pay phone, (the kind that gives you a dial tone AFTER you
put in the dime) and drop in your dime.  Then dial the #, then
put another dime in!  It'll come back out when you finish your
call.
         {What!?!?! Some one tell me if he's serious!}













Page 66






     [ Utopia Bbs: (213) 556-8629 ]



{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}  
{=--=}                                                {=--=} 
{=--=}          Picking Combination Locks             {=--=}
{=--=}                                                {=--=}
{=--=}         Written by:  The Byte Byter            {=--=}
{=--=}                                                {=--=}  
{=--=} The writer of this text file takes  resp- {=--=} 
{=--=} onsibility for what this text file is used for.{=--=}
{=--=} Hopefully it will only be used for illegal pur-{=--=}  
{=--=} poses cuz i can't think of a reason it can be  {=--=}  
{=--=} used for legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=}  
{=--=}                                                {=--=}  
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}

     Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination
locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if
ya do it right, it will help you.  First of all, let me tell you
about the set-up of a lock.  When the lock is locked, there is a
curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the
horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock
it.
To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you
usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the
desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released
therefore letting the lock open.  I will now tell you how to make
a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that
time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know
the combination to begin with).  First of all, ya need to find a
hairpin. What's a hairpin?  Well, just ask your mom.  She will
have one.  If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something
together...  If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip,
tell her to Fuck Off and Die and then go to the store and rip off
a box of 50 or so. 
 Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling).  Once you have your
hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it
off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side.  The curved part can now be used as a handle.  Now, using a
file, file down the other end  until it is fairly thin.  You
should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of
different thicknesses so you can pick various locks.  Some locks
are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file!  But most are not. 
Ok, now you have a lock pick.  Now if ya haven't figured it out,
here's how ya use it.  
Page 67


You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from.  If you
can't tell, you will just have to try both sides.  When ya find
out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the
filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on
whichever side the lock opens from.  Now, put pressure on the 
handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull
the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick
separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it.

Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. because i have gotten
lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' 
gym lockers.  Also, this technique works best on American locks. 
I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a
pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long
it took.  Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't
get the pick in.  So, if you're locking something valuable up,
use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm
sure there aren't that many that could.  And when i say pick, i
don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking
is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key,
etc...  If any of you believe that this information is not
sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind
besides Master, leave me a message at

             /\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761.  

     This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. 
My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks".  
   See ya later.
                                            The Byte Byter       
                                            ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^       
                                            ||| |||| |||||       
                                            ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^       
                                            ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^       
                                            ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^       
                                            ''' '''' '''''















Page 68



This text file was written on 06/21/85.



][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
][          BROUGHT TO YOU BY         ][
][      COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH      ][
][      COURTESY OF THE SAFEHOUSE     ][    Ya it's in all CAPS.
][           (801)-264-8201           ][   I got sick of trans-
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][   lating.

[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]      I did put it to 80
[+]                                 [+]   columns though, 'stead
[+]     L O C K   P I C K I N G     [+]   of the lame 40 columns
[+]                                 [+]   which takes up too much
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]   paper when printed and
[+]                                 [+]   read.
[+]     WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE     [+]     -=+ DarkStorm +=-
[+]                                 [+]
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]



THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO "PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK. 
USE OF THIS MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY
USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL PURPOSES IS FORBIDDEN AND
AGAINST THE LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU
WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?) IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER
LOCK, YOU WILL REQUIRE FOUR ITEMS:
 A LOCK,
 YOU, 
 A PICK,
 AND A TENSION WRENCH. 

YOU CAN USSUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH STORE, IF YOU CAN NOT
FIND ONE NEAR YOU THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF
THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION
OF A PICK AND A TENSION WRENCH:

     ________/   !________
      PICK         TENSION WRENCH

MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT
THE WRENCH IS FOR.  IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITHOUT IT IT WOULD
BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK A LOCK.





Page 69


IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE MUST COUNT UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF
THE LOCK. BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK
THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF IT AND HOW THE
IMPERFECTION PART FITS IN.  HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK:

                /   /   /   /
                \   \   \   \
     SPRINGS -> /   /   /   /
                \   \   \   \
                _   _   _   _
               ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
               ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
     DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
               !_! !_! !_! !_!

                _           _
               ! !  _      ! !
 BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! !  _  ! !
               ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
               \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/

            _____________________
           !   : : : : : : : :   !
 HOUSING ->!   : : : : : : : :   !
           !   : : : : : : : :   !
           !___: :_: :_: :_: :___!
          !    : : : : : : : :   !
   PLUG ->!    : : : : : : : :   !
          !______________________!
           !                     !
           !                     !
           !                     !
           !_____________________!

     ___
    /   \
   !     !__      _   _
   !        \__  / \_/ \__
   !           \/         \
    \__/-------------------  <- KEY


WHEN YOU INSERT A KEY INTO A LOCK, THE BOTTEM PINS ARE PUSHED UP,
AND IF IT IS THE PROPER KEY, THE TOPS OF THE BOTTOM PINS WILL
MATCH WITH THE SPOT WHERE THE PLUG AND HOUSING MEET, THUS
ALLOWING YOU TO TURN THE PLUG, AND OPEN THE DOOR, ETC.. WHEN YOU
INSER THE KEY, THE BOTTOM PINS GO INTO THE VALLEYS OF THE KEY,
THUS MEANING THAT THE KEY MUST HAVE THE RIGHT HEIGHT VALLEYS TO
MAKE THE LOCK OPEN. PRETTY ELEMENTRY, RIGHT?
WELL NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO HOW TO PICK A LOCK.

Page 70


IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK WE (AS I SAID BEFORE) DEPEND ON THE
INACCURACY OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. THE FIRST THING
TO DO IS TO INSERT THE TENSION WRENCH INTO THE LOCK AND APPLY A
SLIGHT PRESSURE TO THE LEFT (OR RIGHT IF YOU WISH) SO THAT IF YOU


COULD LOOK INSIDE THE LOCK AT WHERE THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING
WOULD MEET, IT WOULD LOOK LIKE THIS:

               ! !*! !
     HOUSING   ! !*!<----Spring
               ! !*! !
     __________! !*! !___________
     __________  !*! ____________
              !  !*!!
     PLUG     !  !_!!
              !   _ !
              !  !*!<-----Pin
              !  \_/!

NOW A SLIGHT PRESURE IS ON THE PINS. BECAUSE THE PINS CAN NOT BE
PRODUCED EXACTLY THE SAME, THERE IS ONE PIN WHICH IS THE WIDEST
AND THERE FORE HAS MORE TENSION ON IT, AND ONE WHICH IS
THE THINNEST AND HAS ALMOST NO PRESSURE ON IT. WE NOW USE THE
PICK TO >GENTLY< PUSH EACH PIN UP (AND TRY TO FEEL IT 
WHEN YOU LET IT DOWN) UNTIL WE FIND WHICH IS THE TIGHTEST ON AND
WHICH IS LOOSEST. GETTING THE FEEL FOR THIS IS THE HARDEST PART
OF LOCK PICKING. NOW THAT YOU HAVE FOUND THE LOOSEST ONE,
GENTLY PRESS IT UPWARD UNTIL YOU FEEL A SLIGHT REDUCTION IN
TENSION ON THE TENSION WRENCH. THIS WILL HAPPEN WHEN
THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM PIN BECOMES EVEN WITH THE JUNCTION OF THE
PLUG AND THE HOUSING. DO NOT RELEASE ANY TENSION FROM THE WRENCH
NOW! THE DRIVER WILL NOW BE TRAPPED IN THE HOUSING AS
ILLUSTRATED HERE: (DON'T I DRAW PRETTY)

            ! !*! !
   HOUSING  ! !*! !
            ! !*! !
 ___________! !_! !___________
 _______________     ___________
               ! !*! !
    PLUG       ! !*! !
               ! \_/ !
               !     !

NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS PROCESS WITH EACH OF THE PINS UNTIL YOU
WORK YOUR WAY UP TO THE ONE THAT IS WIDEST. WITH SOME
PRACTICE YOU CAN GET FAIRLY FAST AT THIS. I SUGGEST PRACTICING ON
A FOUR PIN TUMBLER LOCK THAT IS BOUGHT FROM A HARDWARE STORE, THE
CHEAPER THE BETTER.
 
Page 71










I WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS A PATICULAR CONFIGURATION OF THE PINS NOW
THAT MAY  PRESENT A PARTICULARLY HARD JOB TO PICK. THIS IS
GRAPHICLY SHOWN HERE BY THE TWO MIDDLE PINS:

        !*! !*! !*! !*!
        !*! !*! !_! !*!
        !*! !*!  _  !*!
        !_! !*! !*! !_!
         _  !*! !*!  _
        !*! !*! !*! !*!
        !*! !_! !*! !*!
        !*!  _  !*! !*!
        !*! !*! !*! !*!
        \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/

             \_______________

WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH THE 2ND PIN FROM THE LEFT UP, YOU WILL
UNAVOIDABLY BE PUSHING THE ONE IN FRONT OF IT UP BE-
CAUSE OF IT'S LONG BOTTOM PIN. THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THIS IS TO
GET A SPECIAL PICK THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS:

         \
          \   _______________
           \_/

THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THAT IT IS HARD TO INITIALLY
DETECT. THE REASON THAT IT MAKES IT HARDER IF IT IS NOT 
IMMEDIETLY APPERANT IS THAT YOU UnAVOIDABLY PUSH THE 3RD PIN FROM
THE LEFT UP INTO THE HOUSING, GETTING IT JAMMED:

             ! !*! !
   HOUSING   ! !_! !
             !  _  !
             ! !*! !
   __________! !*! !________
   ___________ !*! ________
              !!*!!   
     PLUG     !!*!!
              !\_/!



Page 72



I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADDRESS A  TECHNIQUE CALLED RAKING. IT USES
A TOOL LIKE THIS:

        \/\/\/\___________


BASICLY YOU "RAKE" IT BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE PINS, HOPING THAT
COMBINED WITH THE TENSION IT WILL GIVE YOU THE RIGHT COMBINATION.
THIS WAY HAS BEEN KNOWN: FAST SOMETIMES, BUT IS NOT VERY
RELIABLE, AND I WOULD SUGGEST LEARNING TO ACTUALLY "PICK" THE
LOCK.

EARLIER I PROMISED AN ADDRESS TO ORDER LOCKSMITHING MATERIALS
FROM, SO HERE IT IS:

 Garrison Protective Electronics
         PO Box 128              <--Dropped to lower case to  
Kew Gardens, New York, 11415      stand out better.

SOURCES: PERSONAL PRACTICE AND MANY  EXCELLENT BOOKS FROM MENTOR 
       PRESS, IF YOU WOULD LIKE THEIR CATALOG, SEND A Self-      
 Addressed-Stamped-Envelope TO:

    The Intelligence Library
       Mentor Publications         <--Ditto here.
       135-53 Northern Blvd.
       Flushing, NY  11354

AND ASK FOR ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE ON THE INTELLIGENCE
LIBRARY.  THIS CONCLUDES OUR EXTRAORDINAIRELY GRAPHIC ARTICLE ON
LOCK PICKING.
 IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, LEAVE E-MAIL FOR
                    -- Darc Deathe --
                                     ON MOST NATIONAL BBS'S.


      Edited by : Quasimoto
   Re-Edited by : Dark Star
   Re-Hashed by : DarkStorm











Page 73







     [ Utopia Bbs: (213) 556-8629 ]




                           ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
                           ]]  LOCK  PICKING  [[
                           ]]       BY        [[
                           ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ 
                           ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
 
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE
JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD
BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED
LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE
UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS,
 LOOK ELSEWHERE.

  THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE
"LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF
THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING
THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT FIRST OF ALL,
YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU
 A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU
FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT
IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER
(YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)

THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE
SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND
THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)
IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
 
  #1     
     \\
      \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\  (THIS IS THE HANDLE 
                                         \\\   THAT WAS ALREADY  
                                          \\\        (HERE.)     
                                           \\\
                                            \\\
                                             \\\
   
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END
(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK.  TEST
YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE
IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY.
Page 74 


NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH
FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME
TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?
LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.  

IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE
INTERIOR OF A LOCK:
 
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
 #  #  #  #   #   #    | E
    #     #   #   #    | Y
 *     *               | H
 *  *  *  *   *   *    | O
                       | L
                       | E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
 
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
*= LOWER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL

(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
 
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE
UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,
IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?
THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
 INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL
KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE
BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE
WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR
WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL
PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT
YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
  THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER
WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.  














Page 75


Displaying LOCKPICK.DOC:
          +==========================================+
          +   BE A LOCKPICK,  GET INTO PADLOCKS      + 
          +      "HOW TO CRACK A PADLOCK"            +
          +==========================================+
   I must attribute this message/file to reading I have done from
another files about this, and some methods that I have made up on
my own.
   This method has been only assured with "Master" padlocks. They
are a very common padlock.. This might only work on those, but
who knows..

First, pull the lock down, not so much as that it is impossible
to turn, but just enough to be able to do the following: Turn the
knob around clockwise (to the right) until you feel a small,
small resistance which will last 2-3 numbers on the dial long.
You might try doing this a few times to find the exact number
that it does this on, and not to be mistaken with another. Now,
add 5 to the number you have gotten. Guess what? You have the
first number in the combonation!
   There are a few mehods to get the next number. I will tell you
both, one method, is very quick, but not always 100% reliable.
The other is very difficult.
   QUICK METHOD: This method will get the last two numbers in the
combination in one step. --First, turn right and stop on the
first number you got. Then, turn left and stop on the first
number again. Continue turning to the left to the next marked
number. This means that the dial goes by five, and if your first
number is 18, go to the 20.. Then turn to the dial to the right
again, while pulling down on the lock (as hard as you pull to
unlock it if you have the right combo), and keep turning to the
right until you get to the 2nd number you've tried. If it doesn't
unlock, go on to the next marked number on the dial. (For
instance, you're first number is 18, you tried 20 past right, it
doesn't work, then try 25.) Keep doing this until eventually you
unlock it, or it doesn't work. The most times that you would have
to do this is about 8.
     HARD, BUT NEVER FAILS METHOD: As in above, turn right to
your first number, and then turn left until you get your first
number again. Begin pulling down on the lock again, and trying to
feel for a little resistance. If it is very stiff, you probably
have the second number. If it is weak, then continue turning. You
should try 2 or 3 times to make sure you get the same results.
After you think you've got the second number, turn back to the
right, while pulling down on the lock between tries of oh, say
every 3 numbers, and eventually, CLICK, it will open.
    //=DISCLAIMER:  I am not held responsible for the use of this
information. This is for, let's say, basic knowledge... Let's
say, if you ever forget your combonation, or it is very important
you get into another lock.
This file/message has been brought to you by MASTER MICRO!
Page 76


                             Wierd Drugs
                             By: Pa Bell


Bananas:

1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas

2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings

3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.

4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.

5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste
considtency.

6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in ofen for about 20  
 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually one   
will feel the effects after smoking three to four cigarettes.


Cough syrup:

mix robitussion a-c with an equal amount of ginger ale and drink.
The effects are sedation and euphoria. Never underestimate the
effects of any drug! You can OD on cough syrup!

Toads:

1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best kind
are  tree toads.

2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.

3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator for four to five
days, or    until the skins are brittle.

4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad
taste you  can mix it with a more fragrent smoking medium.











Page 77



Nutmeg:
1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old
grinder.

2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and pulverize
with  a pestle.

3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 grams. A larger dose may   
produce excessive thirst,anxiety,and rapid heart beat, but   
hallucinations are rare.
  {Hallucinations maybe rare, but it does happen.}
  {PS- To get hallucinations you must eat something like 30g, 
which is extremely close to a lethal dose. If you die from this
one, I didn't tell you to do it.}

Peanuts:

1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted)

2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.

3. Eat the nuts.

4. Grind up the skins and smoke them.


























Page 78







                      How to Break In to a House
                            By: Jim Meeker





Okay You Need:
                 1.  Tear Gas or Mace{Use the Mace from MISC.    
                                                COMPOUNDS}       
          2.  A BB/Pelet Gun
                 3.  An Ice Pick
                 4.  Thick Gloves

What You Do Is:

1.  Call the ###-#### of the house, or ring doorbell,  To find   
  out if they're home.

2.  If they're not home then...

3.  Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).

4.  If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.

5.  Put the gloves on!!!!!!!

6.  Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.

7.  Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).

8.  Enter window.

9.  FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (they're neat things there!).

10.  Then goto the Bed-room to get a pillow  case.  Put the      
goodies in the pillow case.

11.  Get out <-* FAST! -*>


Notes:   You should have certian targets worked out (like        
      computers, Radios, Ect.,Ect.).    Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal 
     from your own neigborhood. If you think they have an      
alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.

Page 79

                        Demolition Article #1
                           By: King Arthur


     Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest
care and caution when you are doing this.  Even if you have made
this stuff before.

     This first article will give you information on making
nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.

---------------------------------------
Making nitroglycerin
---------------------------------------

     1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with     
   fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.

     2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below  
      room temp.

     3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of 
       fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4).  In other words, add to 
       the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic 
       acid.
        When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully 
       to avoid splattering.

     4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more 
       ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a   
     mercury-operated thermometer)

     5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired         
      temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin    
      must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper.   
              (Read this step about 10 times!) 
       Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean careful!)  
       Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.

     6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take  
      place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration      
      will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30   
      degrees centigrade! If the solution should go above 30     
      degrees, immediately dump the solution into the ice bath!  
      This will insure that it does not go off in your face!

     7. For hte first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture      
       should be gently stirred.  In a normal reaction the       
       nitroglycerin will formas a layer on top of the acid      
       solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the excess  
       water.
Page 80


     8. After the nitration has taken place, and the
       nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the  
     entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully    
   to another beaker of water.
       When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the    
   bottem so the other acids can be drained away.

     9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing
       the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an       
       eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium  
     bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution.  The sodium  
     is an alkalai and will nuetralize much of the acid
       remaining. This process should be repeated as much as     
  necesarry using blue litmus paper to check for the
       presence of acid.  The remaining acid only makes the      
       nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.

     10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin  
        from the bicarbonate.  His is done with and eye- dropper,
        slowly and carefully.  The usual test to see if nitration
        has been successful is to place one drop of the
        nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it.  If it is true     
   nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.

** Caution **
nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or
jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
























Page 81



                 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

                         Demoltion Article #2
                           By: King Arthur


     I have decided to skip the article on mercury fluminate for
a while and get right into the dynamite article.

     Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a
stablizing agent to make it much safer to use.  For the sake of
saving time, I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. 
The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and
be sure to use the exact amounts.  These percentages are in
weight ratio, not volume.
------            ------
no.  ingredients                 amount
---------------------------------------
#1   NG                          32
     sodium nitrate              28
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            29       {Note: Use NG From the 
                                    chapter on how to build it.} 
    guncotten                    1 <--- Nitrocellulose
                                    {Have fun trying to find it!}
#2   NG                          24  I am contemplating writing, 
    potassium nitrate            9  or adding a chapter on how   
    sodium nitate               56  to  make the stuff, it's     
woodmeal                     9  only slightly difficult.     
ammonium oxalate             2

#3   NG                          35.5
     potassium nitrate           44.5
     woodmeal                     6
     guncotton                    2.5
     vaseline                     5.5
     powdered charcoal            6

#4   NG                          25
     potassium nitrate           26
     woodmeal                    34
     barium nitrate               5
     starch                      10

#5   NG                          57
     potassium nitrate           19
     woodmeal                     9
     ammonium oxalate            12
     guncotton                    3

Page 82


#6   NG                          18
     sodium nitrate              70
     woodmeal                     5.5
     potassium chloride           4.5
     chalk                        2

#7   NG                          26
     woodmeal                    40
     barium nitrate              32
     sodium carbonate             2

#8   NG                          44
     woodmeal                    12
     anhydrous sodium sulfate    44

#9   NG                          24
     potassium nitrate           32.5
     woodmeal                    33.5
     ammonium oxalate            10

#10  NG                          26
     potassium nitrate           33
     woodmeal                    41

#11  NG                          15
     sodium nitrate              62.9
     woodmeal                    21.2
     sodium carbonate              .9

#12  NG                          35
     sodium nitrate              27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate             1

#13  NG                          32
     potassium nitrate           27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            30
     guncotton                    1

#14  NG                          33
     woodmeal                    10.3
     ammonium oxalate            29
     guncotton                     .7
     potassium perchloride       27

#15  NG                          40
     sodium nitrate              45
     woodmeal                    15


Page 83



#16  NG                          47
     starch                      50
     guncotton                    3

#17  NG                          30
     sodium nitrate              22.3
     woodmeal                    40.5
     potassium chloride           7.2

#18  NG                          50
     sodium nitrate              32.6
     woodmeal                    17
     ammonium oxalate              .4

#19  NG                          23
     potassium nitrate           27.5
     woodmeal                    37
     ammonium oxalate             8
     barium nitrate               4
     calcium carbonate             .5






























Page 84


                         HouseHold Chemicals

Household equivalants for chemicles

     It has come to my attention that m any of these chemicles
are sold under brand names, or have household equivalants.  here
is a list that might help you out.

acetic acid                vinegar
aluminum oxide             alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate           alum
ammonium hydroxide         ammonia
carbon carbonate           chalk
calcium hypochloride       bleaching powder
calcium oxide              lime
calcium sulfate            plaster of paris
carbonic acid              seltzer
carbon tetrachloride       cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride        Dutch fluid
ferric oxide               iron rust    _Just buy graphite at the
glucose                    corn syrup  /Hardware store, it's used
graphite                   pencil lead/ to lube locks and such.
hydrochloric acid          muriatic acid_  Extremely diluted
hydrogen peroxide          peroxide     \_/ 
lead acetate               sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide            red lead
magnesium silicate         talc
magnesium sulfate          Epsom salts
naphthalene                mothballs
phenol                     carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate      cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf.   chrome alum
potassium nitrate          saltpeter
sodium dioxide             sand
sodium bicarbonate         baking soda
sodium borate              borax
sodium carbonate           washing soda
sodium chloride            salt
sodium hydroxide           lye
sodium silicate            water glass
sodium sulfate             glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate         photographer's hypo
sulferic acid              battery acid
sucrose                    cane sugar
zinc chloride              tinner's fluid





Page 85











     Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get
one or more of the ingredients try another one.  If you still
can't, you can always buy sm all amounts from your school, or
maybe from various chemical companies.  When you do that, be sure
to say as little as possible, if during the school year, and they
ask, say it's for a experement for school.




































Page 86



                           Misc. Compounds
                           By: The Prowler



                       <-> Mace Substitute <->
    3 PARTS: Alchohol
  1/2 PARTS: Iodine
  1/2 PARTS: Salt

 Or:

    3 PARTS: Alchohol
    1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)

 It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...



                      <-> CO2 Canister Bomb <->

  Take a Co2 canister and cut the top almost off but leave a
little to form a hinge. Let out the Co2 and insert a M80 into it.
Insert fuse throught hole in top. Close the top by welding or
epoxy glue. When ready to ignite just light... Pretty neat eh?



                     <-> Unstable Explosives <->

  Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight
and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy
substance. Let this dry till it hardens.  Now throw it at
something!!!!



                           <-> Jug Bomb <->

  Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it.
Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner
surface of the jug is coated.  Then add a few drops of potassium
permanganate solution into it and cap it.  To blow it up, either
throw it at something, or roll it at something.






Page 87




                       <-> Hindenberg Bomb <->

Needed:

1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum Foil
1 Length Fuse

  Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little
piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of
the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas.  This
is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the baloon.  Now light the
fuse, and let it rise.
  When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!! 
{Bullshit, it's nothing. Try something better, use better
chemicals etc. You can make some nice stuff with gases.}































Page 88




                       How to Build Black Powder
                           By: Mr. Byte-Zap




     Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner.  It
may be used as blasting or gun powder.

Material required:                       Quantity:
-----------------                        --------

potassium nitrate --- granulated ---------  3 cups
wood charcoal --------- powdered ---------  2 cups
sulfur ---------------- powdered --------- 1/2 cup
alcohol - (whiskey, rubbing alcohol) ----- 5 pints
Water ------------------------------------  3 cups
heat source
2 buckets -- each 2 gallon capacity, at least one of which is    
                     heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.) Flat
window screening ------- at least 1 ft. Square
large wooden stick
cloth ----------------------- at least 2 ft. Square

note: the above amounts will yield 2 ounds of black powder. 

    However, only the ratios of the amounts of the ingredients
are important.
    Thus, for twice as much black powder, double all quantities  
    used.

Procedure:
---------

1) place alcohol in one of the buckets

2) place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat
resistant bucket.  Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden
stick until all ingredients are dissolved.

3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture.  Place bucket on heat
   source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.

Caution:  do not boil mixture.  Be sure all mixture stays wet. 
If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it may ignite.

4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while   
stirring vigorously

Page 89



5) let alcohol stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through   
cloth to obtain black powder.  Discard liquid. Wrap cloth   
around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp
   powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen

note: if granulated particles appear to stick together and change
      shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 
     & 6.

7) Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer   
about 1/2 inch is formed.  Allow to dry.  Use radiator , or   
direct sunlight.  This should be dried as soon as possible,   
preferably in one hour.  The longer the drying period, the   
less effective the black powder.

Caution: remove from heat as soon as granules are dry.  Black    
           powder is now ready for use.































Page 90






                     Fire Bombs, Napalm etc.


                            By: Lex Luthor


                              FIREBOMBS

   Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The
original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a
mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil
helps it to cling to what it splatters on.

   Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire
bombs have been found whcih were made by pouring melted wax into
gasoline.


                                NAPALM

    About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick
consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or
buildings. 
    Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The
soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't
do.
                                                                
The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The
usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least
a two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to
a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried
to where there is no flame.

   Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part
and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and
the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat
gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get
it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger
container than will the double boiler.




NOTE: Anyone who lives after trying this, drop me a note, I want
to shake your hand.

Page 91



                                                               


                           MATCH HEAD BOMB

   Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make
a devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse

   A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in
to prevent detonation by contact with the metal.

   Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious
work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag
them away from the TV.


                       FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB

   A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like
fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut
from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare
igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire
bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then
throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the
contents.

            WHAT!?!?
                                                                






















Page 92






                      How to Make Nitroglycerin
                            By: Karl Marx


                    CH2ONO2
                    !                    3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
                    CHONO2  ---------->     +
                    !        Ignition    5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
                    CH2ONO2

(How Nitro explodes--note that the byproducts are nothing but
nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)

     Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high-
explosive.  I am not sure who invented it but he probably
didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and
his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best
thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also
ten times safer to make.  If you can't use common sense then dont
even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can be lethal under
certain circumstances.
                                                                 
                       To make Nitro:
                       == ==== ======

     Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should
have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts
sulphuric acid.  This is going to be HOT at first--it won't
splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try
it the other way around.
The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of
seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!!  When cool,
add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down
the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix
thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough
heat to ignite the stuff.  Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15
seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME*
of water.  It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be
twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to
separate.  Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated
it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously.






Page 93






::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
  NOTES:  Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of spicific
gravity can be found in most chem. books.  You ca get fuming
nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers
are sold.  It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams
of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc.  When I first
made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I
added too much glycerine at a time.)  I was across the room at
the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as
well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only
25 grams in an open bowl.
Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an
adult signature for the acids.  Any bump can make Nitro go off if
you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with
that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it.

     Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb.
you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by
itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and
then saturating that with molten ((parifine--just enough to make
it sealed and hard.
Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton
and parifine.  This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as
"Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.






















Page 94







I Zoxxon take no responsibility for the use of these items stated
herewithin. This textfile is presented for informational use
only. The comments are added to most of the things i have
attempted. All of the origional authors names have been deleted
for privacy. All telephone numbers have been deleted also in
order to preserve secrecy.

Some articles are from the ill-fated,
  "THE POLICE STATION"   BBS


  Homemade Bombs (Just the way Mom used to make 'em)
Explosive Devices   An anarchist's beginning guide to explosives!
(or how to get back at those neighbors who told you to turn your
stereo down by blowing em up!)

   1.Quickie...   Take organic pool chlorine and mix it with
vegetable shortening and put it someplace you don't like. It
reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white smoke and heat.
*make sure you are not around because the fumes are harmful to
your health.

   2.A pipe bomb (dangerous)   Take a pipe, crimp (closed at one
end) and pack it 3/4 full of paraffin (or any other semi-solid
with about the same basic chemical structure), poke a number of
holes through the length of the paraffin. On top of this put a
very thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double
damn sure** that it fits tightly all the way around. On top of
this put some high concentration HCL (or similar acid). Close the
top now, stand it on end (paraffin end down), and get the fuck
away. You should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the
thickness of the wafer. Watch out for shrapnel.

*sure you will..more like 5-30 seconds. better to use a vial on
the bottom ,stand the pipe upright, tie a string around it and
pull from far away.

   3. Snowball...   Take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form
this into a snowball. Leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it
will do neat stuff when it dries out. (substituting some
magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour helps
things a bit.)




Page 95








   4.Fire bomb..   Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white
phosphorous in it. Put it in a stoppered bottle and throw it at
something you would like to see on fire. When the CS2 evaporates,
it leaves a film of P on what ever it hits, and it starts a fire
with the solvent vapors.



   5. Light bulb bomb (click...booom!)   Take a light bulb (brass
based preferably so you can solder the wires back when you are
done) Unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass (one
at the center of the base and one on the edge). Remove the base,
taking care not to damage the bulb or filament, then take a pair
of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now
exposed. Fill bulb (not completely),via the hole you just made,
with gasoline. Plug hole with silicone or something. Put the base
back on, resolder the wires, screw into light fixture (with power
off of course!), turn on light...booom! *easier to use a
mini-power-drill.



EXPLOSIVE INFO
    WHEN PETROLEUM JELLY AND POTASSIUM CHLORATE ARE MIXED IN A
ONE TO ONE RATIO BY WEIGHT, IT MAKES A TOTALLY SAFE WET COMPOUND
BUT WHEN DRIED IT BECOMES HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE.
*store in oil.



    MIX 3 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM IODIDE AND 5 GRAMS OF IODINE IN A
BEAKER WITH 50 ML OF WATER. THEN ADD 20 ML OF AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
[AMMONIA WATER 10%]. FILTER THIS SUBSTANCE AND THE RESULTING
SOLID IS CALLED NITROGEN TRIIODIDE. WHEN THIS IS WET IT IS
SAFE,BUT WHEN DRY BECOMES VERY EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE. *a
feather will set it off!!









Page 96


   Common Rocket Fuel
   ------------------
  Materials:
   1.) Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) or "Saltpeter".
   2.) Sugar (Powdered is the best)

   Procedure:
   1.) Mix the two together 1/2 Nitrate and 1/2 Sugar
   2.) Take an old cooking pan, and melt the two together. There
is NO  way for it to ignite.(*BULLSHIT!)
   3.) It should turn into a fudgey looking compound. Pour this
compound into a rocket engine such as a cardboard tube, and set a
fuse into the compound and let the compound harden.
 * it is easier to use dry mixed.(Good for smoke also)


   Chlorate Mixtures
   -----------------
   NOTE: The main ingredient for this experiment is potassium or
sodium  chlorate. Both of these will do equally well.
However,both may prove  difficult to find. Probably the only way
to get it would be to order it through a chemical supply house.

   Materials:
   ----------
   1) Potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate.
   2) Powdered charcoal
   3) Powdered aluminum
   4) Sulfur

   Procedure:
   ----------  
 NOTE: There is no set procedure for making chlorate mixtures.
The only special thing ABOUT chlorate mixtures is that they have
a chlorate in them. Experiment with diffiernt proportions of each
of the ingredients.All of the chlorate mixtures I made had no set
procedure and I just experimented with the proportions of each of
the ingredients. Most of your mixture, however, should be
potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate.

  1) Make sure that you mix the sulfur and charcoal and aluminum
first. You may grind these in a mortar and pestal to get a good
mix of these ingredients.
  2) Add potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate. Mix them VERY
CAREFULLY in the mortar and pestal. DO NOT GRIND the mixture once
the chlorate has been added or it will ignite and burn the shit
out of you.
  3) You now may use the mixture for whatever you want to.
Chlorate  mixtures are some of the best compositions there are
and, in my experiences, they are the best except for model rocket
propellant (procedure for making this is given later).
Page 97

                                                              


   ' Green Goddess '
   -----------------

   Materials
   ---------
   1.) Zinc (Zn) <---NOTE: This is not the same as Znc Oxide!   
2.) Sulfur (S)

   Procedure
  ---------
   1.) Mix the two together 1/2 and 1/2.


   2.) MAKE SURE that you mix them very well. The best way to do
so, is to put the mixture in a jar with a lid and shake it up for
15-60 seconds, until it is all a grayish color.
   3.) To ignite, use magnesium and a blow torch (*matches don't
work).

WARNING,this burns very very quickly, and produces smoke. Also it
burns at a fairly high temperature(*about 600 deg. fah.). It will
surprise you when it ignites. There will be a delay, and then all
of a sudden, it will flash up, and is capable of burning the hell
out of you.


   Nitrate Compound
   ----------------

   Materials
   ---------
   1.) Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)
   2.) Aluminum Powder (dust)
   3.) Sulfur (S)

   Procedure
   ---------
   1.) Take 2 Tablespoons KNO3
   2.) 2 Tablespoons AL
   3.) 1/2-1 Tablespoon S
   4.) Mix and shake, until all is one solid color. Silver-grey. 
  5.) You can light this with a fuse or throw a match into it to
light.

 You may experiment with the ratios. Here are a few tips:
   a.) To make more smoke add more sulfur to the mixture.
   b.) To make it burn slower, add more Potassium Nitrate.      
c.) To make it burn faster, add more Aluminum Dust.

Page 98








   Ok guys, it's me again with another cool one...
            The Missile Launcher.
It's really simple to make, all you need is:
  1 empty can (gasoline can preferable) some gasoline
  a paper bag
  aluminum foil
   Now, just cut a piece out of the paper bag about the size of
your can. Roll it up cigar-style and tape the very ends to keep
it in the same shape. Now, take you're missile, and stick about
3/4ths of it in a pool of gasoline, and let it soak up a little
while. Now, on the upper limit of where the gas hit (the gas-line
I suppose you could call it) rip a small piece almost completely
off, and bend it out. That is your fuse. Ok, now put aluminum
foil on the top. The amount of foil that you put on determines
the range of the missile. The more the shorter...Makes it easier
to aim..
Now you're ready. Put the missile in the hole in the gas can, so
that the fuse is light-able, and light it. Stand back, it makes a
bit of noise... For sum real phun, put a bit of impact explosive
in the nose... 
*how that one works i have no idea..mine just burnt up...



   This is really easy. Just get a few bottles of rubber cement
and pour a line of it up to a wall and up the wall. Then, light
it and watch! Great phun. <<-----Lame!



   While on the subject of light bulbs, why not apply this to a
car? 
 1] Take a hand drill or grind stone and make a hole at the base
of the bulb.
 2] Fill the bulb with amonium nitrate, black powder, potassium
chlorate, or any explosive material.
Result: When the victim turns on his/her headlights, you get a
fireworks show.







Page 99



   How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in
your spare time.
Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The
tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to school with
you, just before he comes out of school. Take a lighter and put
it directly underneath his car door handle.  
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!",
you know he made it to his car in time.
*variation: use dry ice in winter..



   Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas in it.
Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts. Then you
have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.




   This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it!



   Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.



   Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder
why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that
takes time and many friends. Take his/her car apart then break
into thier house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom.
Phun eh?



   If you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to
something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't work.











Page 100








   Pool Phun
   ---------
   First of all, you need know nothing about pools. The only
thing you need to know is what a pool filter looks like.
   Second, dress casual. Preferably, in black. Visit your
"friends" house, the one whose pool looks like fun!!)  Then you
reverse the polarity polarity of his/her pool, by switching the
wires around. They are located in the back of the pump. This will
have quite an effect when the pump goes on. In other words.
Boooooooooooommm! Thats right, when you mix +
wires with - plugs, and vice- versa, the 4th of july happens
again. Not into total destruction???
When the pump is off, switch the pump to "backwash". Turn the
pump on and get the phuck out! When you look the next day,
phunny. The pool is dry.


If you want permanent damage, yet no great display like my first
one mentioned, shut the valves of the pool off. (There are
usually 2) One that goes to the main drain and one that goes to
the filter in the pool.
That should be enough to have one dead pump. The pump must take
in water, so when there isn't any...



   Practical jokes:


These next ones deal with true friends and there is *no*
permanent damage done. If you have a pool, you must check the
pool with chemicals. There is one labeled orthotolidine. The
other is labeled alkaline (ph). You want orthotolidine. (It
checks the chlorine). Go to your local pool store and tell them
you're going into the pool business, and to sell you ortho-
tolidine (a CL detector) Buy this in great quantities if
possible. The solution is clear. You fill 2 baggies with this
chemical. And sew the bags to the inside of your suit. Next, go
swimming with your friend! Then open the bags and look like
you're enjoying a piss. Anyone there will turn a deep red! They
will be embarrassed so much, especially if they have guests
there! Explain what it is, then add vinegar to the pool. Only a
little. The "piss" will disappear.


Page 101








   Ye Olde Moltov-Cocktail:


                                  % <--Wick (dipped in gasoline)
                                %%
                               _%_
                              I---I <---Cap
                Liquor    __  I % I
           (or Gasoline)    \ /   \
                             \     \     /--Bottle (obviously)
                            / \->   \   /
                            I_______I<-/
                            I  The  I
                            ICoktailI
                Label ----> Iof the I
                            I World i
                            I-------i
                            i_______i

   A simple moltov for all of you.

 One special note. I suggest using gas instead of liquor for the
cocktail, seeing as how one can make for himself much better
cocktails.
 Very Simple bomb. Just light and throw. There are many
variations to this, which are in phile #2.

-Galin



{Special note.... I tried to get you his 'phile #2', but I have
not found it anywhere. Anyone who has it should contact me, or
add it to a copy, Just put it in the zip along with the rest of
the file.}










Page 102





                                The
                     Anarchist's Micro Cookbook
                                by:
                             MAELSTROM
  (A Book of simple bombs for the average, and unscientific kid.)


     Matchbomb:

          Tin foil, matches (wooden or paper), fuse

     Cut off the sulfur tops of the matches. Put them on the tin
foil. Pack tightly. Put the fuse into the middle of the bomb, and
pack very tightly.
     If not packed enough, you will only get a flame thrower.
With 3000 match heads, you will get a six foot flame if not
packed enough. Otherwise it will explode, sending flames in every
direction.


     Variations of the Matchbomb:

          Ping-pong bomb:

          Ping-pong ball, matches, fuse

     Follow same directions as matchbomb, but put the match heads
into a ping-pong ball. (Put a hole in it with an awl.) Stuff in
the match heads. Then add the fuse.
     Average ping-pong ball takes over 100 match heads. When lit,
throw, will explode in air if packed tight, otherwise, only a
small meltdown will occur. A well packed ping-pong bomb will
explode sending a shower of flame and match heads for over 25 ft.
The shell of the ping-pong ball will be set aflame and will melt
to whatever it hits.

          Jar bomb:

          Babyfood jar, matches, fuse, cap

     Ditto of matchbomb. Pack tight, etc. Put hole in top of cap
with awl, and set in the fuse about 1/4 inch into the match
heads.
      Normal size jar will hold over 2900 match heads. Pack them
until they will not pack tighter. Light fuse and throw, or run.
When matches catch, will blow the jar to shreads. Do not stand
too close, or you will get the shrapnel upside your head.

Page 103



     Shellbomb:

          Bullet, fuse, pliers, drill, hammer, nail

     Remove the bullet from the live shell with the pliers. Point
away from yourself, just in case you screw up too badly. Save the
bullet for other bombs, etc. Pour the blackpowder onto a table
top, paper cup, napkin, or other. Strike the back of the bullet
shell with the nail and hammer to set it off. Now take the drill
and drill a hole in the back of the shell. Refill with the
blackpowder. Crimp end with pliers. Put fuse in hole. Light and
throw.
     Explosion will shatter the shell, tearing it to pieces and
sending shrapnel everywhere. Enjoy it, but do not get hit. this
will ruin the fun.


     Variation of Shellbomb:

     Same as shell bomb, but leave the blackpowder in the shell,
and just add the fuse to the open end, and then crimp a bit less
tightly.
     Light and throw etc. Works basically the same way, just a
faster version.


     Simple bomb:

          Balloon, blackpowder (1 lb), fuse, duct tape, BB's

     Fill balloon with blackpowder. Put fuse into open end of
balloon. Wrap balloon tightly with duct tape. Put some BB's in
between layers of duct tape. Do about 3 or 4 layers.
     Light and enjoy. Do not stand too close: BB's fly fast and
hard.



          For any of these bombs, add some smokepowder from smoke
bombs to make it more noticable. Add some copper fillings, or
powder for a green flame, or magnesium ribbon for a blinding
flash of white light.








Page 104



     To finish off I will throw in the infamous Maltov-Cocktail.

     Moltov-Cocktail:

          Whiskey bottle, cap, tampon, copper wire, gasoline

     Drink the whiskey first.
     Ok, now you can begin. Fill the bottle with gasoline, and
screw on its cap. next dip the tampon, yes, a tampon(or a cotton
ball for those of you who are wimps) in gasoline. Wrap the copper
wire around the neck of the whiskey bottle, securing the tampon
in place. Light the tampon and throw.
     If the cap is on well, then you can hold it for as long as
necessary, the cocktail will not explode until the glass
shatters.


     Variation of Moltov-Cocktail:

     Same as above, but fill the bottle with styrofoam after
drinking the whiskey. Then fill with gasoline and proceed as
planned. 
     The styrofoam will melt when the bottle explodes, and will
remain molten for a few seconds before hardening again. This is
extremely painful if it gets on you, and will usually cause third
degree burns.
     Can be used to take out wooden buildings or other substances
which require a long heating before combustion. The styrofoam
will burn for a while hot enough to ignite most wood structures.




          Have a hell of a time, and remember, there's nothing
wrong with what you are doing, 'til you get caught.

cc  













Page 105







                         How to Hotwire a Car
                           By: The Marauder



  The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start
crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire
electrical system so there is a better way.

  When you get in the car, look under the dash.  If it's enclosed
then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately.
However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it
near the ignition.

  Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red
wires. In older cars this was the standard color code.  If they
aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find.

Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start.



























Page 106











                    CARS AND LIGHTBULBS etc




   You wanna fuck up someones car try putting a cup of sugar in
the gas tank or a raw egg. The sugar seizes the engine bigtime! I
dunno what the egg does but once some dickless asshole put one in
our gas tank and we had to get the tank removed to get it out. It
looked like an Omelette..



   Take the bottom of the light bulb off very carefully (*heat it
up with a blowtorch to expand it) and make sure you do not
destroy any wires...You should now have the metal part it one
hand and the glass part in another. Put the metal one down. Fill
bottom of bulb with gunpowder and then put water on top. when
putting the metal back in, be sure that the filament, the part
that lights up, touches both the water and the powder.
When someone turns on the light...hahaha...




  Also try the same thing, but stop at the part where you put in
the stuff...Buy a size A Rocket engine, and hook it up with the
igniter hooked to the wires on the filament...Point it down,and
they'll get a surprise when someone turns on the light!



   Ok, like I saw the ol' light bulb bomb trick done in this cool
movie,'The Soldier'...The commie bad guy snuck into the CIA
director's office,and took the glass part off the light bulb. He
filled the glass part with gasoline (or some flammable stuff) and
liquid soap to have the fire stick to the guy. He glued it back
together, and when he turned on the light...




Page 107





                         Electronic Terrorism
                             By: King Tut


    It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.  Being
of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to
avoid a (direct) confrontation.  But as he laughs in your face,
you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned.

Step 1:  follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.  Once  
       you  have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or  
       more, letting your anger boil.

Step 2:  in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist     
    kit(details below.)

Step 3:  plant your kit at the desig- nated target site on a     
       monday  morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00     
       am.  Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints   
       at the possibility of another attack.  Do not write it    
       by hand!  An example of an effective note:

                                                                 
                    "don't be such a jerk, or the
                        next one will take off your
                        hand.  Have a nice day."

        Notice how the calm tone instills fear.  As if written by
     a homicidal psychopath.

Step 5:  choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.

        Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see  
        his facial contortions.

Step 6:  sit back and enjoy the fireworks!


Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit
#1:

the parts you'll need are:
 1) 4 aa batteries
 2) 1 9-volt battery
 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
 6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Page 108                                                         
     






step 1:  take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's 
        coil. This circuit should also include a pair of         
        contacts that when separated cut off this circuit.       
        These contacts should be held together by trapping them  
        between the locker,mailbox, or car door.  Once the door  
        is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt        
        circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the     
        closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If    
        all this is confusing take a look at the schematic       
       below.)


Step 2:  take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.    
        Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative        
        terminal of another, until all four are connected        
 except one positive terminal and one negative terminal.        
Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create        
6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to
        activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively.


Step 3:  take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end 
        of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to    
        one prong of the solar ignitor.  Then wire the other     
        prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on  
        the relay.


Step 4:  using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his     
        locker, mailbox, or car door.  And last, insert the solar
        ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).















Page 109





                      Your kit is now complete!

                         ---------><---------
                         I    (CONTACTS)    I
                         I                  I
                         I                 --- (9  VOLT)
                         I                  -  (BATTERY)
                         I                 ---
                         I                  I
                         I      (COIL)      I
                         ------///////-------
                              /-----------
                             /           I
                            /            I
                           /             I
                       (SWITCH) I        I
                                I        I
                                I        I
                                I        I
                                I       --- (BATTERY)
                                I        -  ( PACK  )
                                I       ---
                                I        I
                                I        I
                                ---- -----
                                   I I
                                    *
                              (SOLAR IGNITOR)




















Page 110




                           Harmless Terror
                           By: The Prowler


To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their
victems but only terror.

These are weapons that should be used from high places.

1) The flour bomb.
   Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour
   in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to   
keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but when it   
hits, it covers the victim with the flower or causes a big   
puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far   
as they are concerned, some strange white powder is all over   
them. This is a cheap method of terror and for only the cost   
of a roll of paper towels and a bag of flour you and your   
friends can have loads of fun watching people flee in panic.





                                                                

2) Smoke bomb projectile.
   All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and 
   a  wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and  
 watch the terror since they think it will blow up!


3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
   take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in
   the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm place for   
about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will   
only smell when they hit.


4) Glow in the dark terror.
   Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the
   stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the   
victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive   
substance so they run in total panic. This works especially   
well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets   
all over the victim.



Page 111





                                                               





5) Fizzling panic.
   Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it.
(Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a
gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger
plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown,
the two  substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling
substance to go  all over the victim.



































Page 112


                             Carding
                             -------

    First of all, for those of you who do not know exactly what
carding is, well, it is the illegal use of credit cards for the
purchase of items using them.  This can be very useful. 
Especially when you are out of work such as I am.  This file is
of course not for the professional carder, but for the beginner
who does not know how to obtain or use a credit card to his/her
advantage.

    Ok, the first thing you have to do is obtain a card from
somewhere.  The best way is to go to your local supermarket or
any store that uses credit cards.  Then, you watch them take out
the trash.  After they have taken the trash out then you go over
when the coast is clear and search through their trash.  I know
that it can get messy, but don't conplain, jut think of the nice
things that you will be able to get out of it in the future. You
are looking for carbons that they run te cards through. Then, you
take those home and write down the name, card number, and the
experation date and the type of card that it is (Mastercharge,
Visa, American Express, etc.) You make sure that you have cards
with a good date on it.  Next comes the good part, the ordering. 
All you do when orderin is that you call up a mail-order
and then you tell them what you want and your card number, and
then they will ask for the place to send it to.  Here comes the
hardest part.  Here are some of your options of places to send
it.
      1) To a vacant house, apartment.
      2) To a friend that will deny it ever arived when they
inquire about it
      3) To someones housee that you do not know.

Let us examine these options in detail.

1) Sending to a vacant house or apartment.  This is done by
giving the address of the vacant house/apartment.  Them, when it
arives UPS and the mail man will leave it on the front porch or
bushes. Then you just go by the house and pick it up.  You must
take into account tat the possibility that someone may move into
the house/apartment.

2) Sending to a friend and having him deny that it arived. You
abribe your friend to pick up the packages when they arive at
his/her house and then he gives them to you.  Then, when the fuzz
comes along to grab the guy eho it got sent to your friend (and
parents who never saw him get it or it come) will deny it.  And
the fuzz won't mess with them any more.
     They will axamine the other possibilitys.


Page 113







3) Ok, you find some nice older people that don't know you and
that you do not live around.  Then, you order the stuff you want
and send it to that house.  You call the people and make up an
origanal story of how they got the wrong address and they already
sent it and ask to pick it up when it arrives.  Make sure not to
give them your real name, address, phone number, etc....

And the other way of obtaining a credit card is to get it from a
Elite board.  This is not the best way, since this way the card
is usually overdrawn by the time you get it.  Anothr way to card
and my favorite is to use the T.R.W. credit information system.
This is only if you have a good password, if you do not or do not
have a file explaining it do not call it.  IF you make mistakes
they do trace !
 
Here is a number for T.R.W.      /--Why not use the Blue Boxing  
           [408] 280-1901   <-/   file to call here?
Look for one in your area with your dialer or consult your local
sysop or Elite board.  For futher info on T.R.W. consult a file
called T.R.W. information that is around some places.  Ask for it
at your local good bbs.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Stupid disclaimer: I disclaim any of the above, I plee temperary
insanity!
This was intended only for the knowledge for future reference. 
This file does not approve or condon the use of credit cards for
illegal uses.  Merely to inform such as Newsweek informs on
cocaine, but does not condon it's use.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

>>> I Repeat that this file was written with the complete novice
in mind!!!
  I plee temperary insanity!
This was intended only for the knowledge for future reference. 
This file does not approve or condon the use of credit cards for
illegal uses.  Merely to inform such as Newsweek informs on
cocaine, but does not condon it's use.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
ABOVE DISCLAIMER IS A LOAD OF BULLSHIT! <--{To whoever wrote this
                                           {article, this line   
                                        {has a nice effect!




Page 114






                 *  R e n e g a d e   L e g i o n  *



                         Carding in the '90s

                                 by

                             The Knight







The Night Elite BBS    (617)623.7151  (RL HeadQ)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -
3/17/91

It used to be that a person could steal a carbon and find a house
that no one was occupying during the day, stick up a 'Please
leave package' note, and your package would be there the next day
via overnight delivery.


This, of course no longer works almost at ALL anymore unless your
in a relatively unpopulated state. And, you'll need a lot more
information than a carbon can give you to even get it mailed. I
have outlined a step by step carding method that HAS WORKED for
me and has ALWAYS gotten stuff through to the drop every attempt.
I will go through each step THOROUGHLY as if you were a COMPLETE
beginner to carding just in case you ARE.




1........Gathering Card Information

The first step is getting credit card #'s. The BEST way I have
found to do this is to use CBI. You will need to get the
following info from CBI:



Page 115





     Credit card #
     Name of bank
     Social Security #
     Address 
     FULL name

After you get that information from CBI, it is neccessary to call
information and get the persons REAL phone #. This will NOT be
used, but you'll need it just in case, I'll explain later.

2........Setting up

The setup part is fairly easy, and this involves a slight change
from past methods of carding. As a 'Phone number you can be
reached at', You must provide a Direct Dial VMB. So a Direct Dial
VMB which will pick up with YOUR greeting is a must. This will
impersonate a home answering machine.
Change the greetin to "Hello, I can not answer your call...."
etc.

Last of all, Have ALL information ACCESSABLE and EASY to find.

Tips:

       - Run the card through a CC Checker for $1 if you got the
CC from CBI.

         Example: 800-554-2265  Bank    : 1067 #
                                Merchant: 52 #
                                Type    : 10 # (MC) 20 # (Visa)
                                Amount  : 100# ($1.00)
                                Exp.date: 0193 (1/93, make it    
                                            up,the exp.
                                                date is NEVER
                                                  checked)

       - DON'T use American Express, they always call the owner's
         number EVEN if you tell them your not at home!


3........Ordering

This is when you actually PLACE the call. You MUST stay calm and
relax. Tell them what you want to order, the key is to pretend
like the person with the card is YOU. Play actor, ASK about
prices FIRST, and DON'T overdo it from one place. Example: Just
order a loaded 486 with a 200 Mb hard drive, DON'T go and say
"Yeah, can I have a gig on that?"
Page 116







Then, just order!


When it comes to credit card time, remember these:

 - Do NOT order it OVERNIGHT, Send it 3rd day or something, I
used the same VMB for 2 months before the police got around to
shutting it down. Overnight delivery is a flag for them now.

 - If they ask for "the number on the back of the card" or "The
issuing bank" (If CBI didn't give you the issuing bank, or you
didn't know what the initials were)

   say: "Well, I'm not looking at my card right now." If you need
to, use phrases like:

        "My card is in my wallet in the car, I REALLY don't have
time to go dig it out right now. IS THIS GOING TO BE A PROBLEM!?"

         They HATE that phrase and I usually get a turnaround of
80% saying, no sir, never mind. The Key is, ACT LIKE YOU HAVE
A DATE IN 25 MINUTES DOWNTOWN, in other words, act rushed
and pissed off. MOST BUSINESSMEN ARE, Don't kiss their asses
because businessmen don't!!

 - Your VMB is your ANSWERING MACHINE, if they catch the
difference in area code of VMB and Billing address, tell them its
your summer house or relatives house, but DON'T BRING IT UP.

 - If they ask for # at Billing address, give them the REAL #,
they will check with Information only, but be sure to emphasize
that the number you gave them for the billing address is NOT the
number your at! Make SURE you say you can be contacted at the VMB
number for the next week or so.

 - If they tell you they can't ship to a different address than
the billing address, stand FIRM, say "Is there ANY way I can
change this? Can you call my bank or something?!!?" Sound
ANNOYED, DON'T give up and in about 40% of my calls, the person
changed their mind.

 - Do NOT check your VMB every 10 minutes, that looks weird.

 - DO NOT even TRY to get HST's, those are flagged UP the BUTT,
and I'd  GUESS that soundblasters will be soon.

Page 117






 - Tell them you NEED the stuff delivered on X day, and INSIST,
   KEEP insisting! Make SURE. Tell them, "I need to do work on
   XX and I want the machine then"

 - If you are sending a LOT of machines etc. to ONE drop, Make
the package ATTENIONED to John Smith or whoever, have ALL the
packages addressed to the same person. Tell them your sendin it
to a business associate, relative, wife, whatever. We don't need
the stuff flagged down at Fed Ex.

The key phrase is "I really don't have time for this"

And remember: YOUR the CUSTOMER, they don't know you AREN'T the
card holder, for christ sake, ACT LIKE IT!! DON'T take second
rate service!!


4........Drops

The drop is very important nowadays, you can NOT just leave a
note, so don't even bother.

4 methode


1. Vacant House Method

Put blankets up on windows in house and sit in and sign for
packages. This method, works, and there are no future problems.
FUTURE problems, they MAY not beleive you live there etc. so this
method is a BIT risky

2. Freind's house - Robbed method

Tell a freind to sign at HIS house, then call the police at
6.00pm and say "I JUST came home and my door was ajar and some
lights were on, I Don't think anything was stolen, but what
should I do?"

Make sure ALL stuff is cleared out and its safer if the person
doesn't even have a computer. When the police come by asking
about packages on X day, bring up your break in. To be safer,
send something one day late and refuse to sign for it and bring
it up to the police.



Page 118




3. Freind's house - Vacant method

Sign for the stuff at a freind's house, GET IT OUT, and when the
police come say " I was on vacation for 3 weeks, I don't know
ANYTHING about packages" There's NOTHING they can do, and your
set.


The advantages to the last 2 methods are:

You won't get bored if nothing comes
You won't get caught breaking & Entering
You won't get caught by Fed ex guy and not get stuff


I have done #2 AND #3 with success, so it CAN be done.

Extra tip: Try US Mail, they haven't caught on yet to the drop
deal!




Have fun and don't get caught!
                             - -
RL























Page 119


%%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%%
%%                  Coin Changer Fraud                       %%
%%            Written by- Electronic Rebel                   %%
%%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%%
%%Lost City of Atlantis........215-844-8836 300/12/24  35 Meg%%
%%Infinity's Edge..............805-683-2725 300/1200   10 Meg%%
%%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%%


   Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in
airports, laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you
put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill?  Well then, here is an article
for you.
 1)  Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill
length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and
then slide they tray in!!!
 2)  After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill.  Start
crumpling up into a ball.  Then smooth out the bill, now it
should have a very wrinkly surface.
 3)  Now the hard part.  You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See
Figure).
 4)  If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go
out the machine.  Put the bill in the machine and wait.  What
should happen is:  when you put your bill in the machine it
thinks everything is fine.  When it gets to the part of the bill
with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill
and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same
time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! 
It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it,
you can get a lot of money!

                  !--------------------------------!
                  !                                !
                  ! (1)         /-------\      (1) !
                  !             !       !          !
                  !             !  Pic. !          !
                  ! (1)  /\     \-------/      (1) !
                  !      !!                        !
                  !-----/  \-----------------------!

                         \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 "    
                                            down from (1)

   P.S.  Sorry for the "text work" but you should be able to get
a good idea. If not, I can be reached on Infinity's Edge bbs. 
Have fun!

    Call The Works BBS-1600+Textfiles!-[914]/238-8195-300/1200   
                       Always Open

Page 120






                                                                 
                           Free Postage!!
                           By: TAP Magazine



     The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and packages
is bringing down our standard of living.  To remedy this
deplorable situation, some counter control measures can be
applied.
     For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with
Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not
destroy the stamp:
   the Elmer/s drives to form an almost invisible coating that
protects the stamps from the cancellation ink. Later, the
receiver of the letter can remove the cancellation mark with
water and reuse the stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will
also result from recycling the stamps.  Help save a tree.

     The glue is most efficently applied with a brush with stiff,
short bristles.  Just dip the brush directly into the glue and
spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of the stamp. 
It will dry in about 15 minutes.


                                                     


     For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as
outlined above; however, the package should be weighed and
checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of postage on
it before it is taken tothe Post Office.

     Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps can
be easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm water until
they float free from the paper.  The stamps can then be put onto
a paper towel to dry.  Processing stamps in large batches saves
time too. Also, it may be helpful to write the word 'Elmer' at
the top of the letter (not on the envelope) to cue the receiving
party in that the stamps have been protected with the glue.

     We all know that mailing packages can be expensive.  And we
also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated
against in jobs. The Government, being the generous people they
are, have given the blind free postal service.


Page 121




     Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one
modification. In the corner where the stamp would go, write in
(or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND".  Then drop you
package or letter in one of the blue fedral mailboxes. 

 DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR LEAVE IT IN YOUR
MAILBOX.

     Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right?  Well,
they aren't that nice.  The parcel is sent library rate, that is
below third class.  It may take four to five days to send a
letter to just the next town.

     This too is quite simple, but less effective.  Put the
address that you are sending the letter to as the return address.

If you were sending a $20 donation to the pirate's Chest, you
would put our address (po box 644, lincoln ma. 01773) as the
return address.

     Then you would have to be carless and forget to put the
stamp on the envelope.  A nice touch is to put a bullshit address
in the center of the envelope.

     Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDRAL mailbox.  If the
post office doesn't send the letter to the return address for
having no stamp, they will send it back for the reason of "No
such address".
                                                               

Example--

  Pirates Chest
  P.O. Box 644
  Lincol, Ma.
  01773

                       Tom Bullshit
                       20 Fake Road
                       What Ever, XX
                       99851


     One last thing you might try doing is soaking a cancelled
stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one you are sending.

Then burn the stamp, leaveing a little bit to show that there was
one there.

Page 122

 
Displaying HBO.DOC:
 
 
                   ///PAY TV DECODER PLANS///
 
              MATERIALS REQUIRED:
 
     1   - Radio Shack mini-box ( #270-235)
     1   - 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k-2.4k ohm (RS #271-1325)
     1   - 75pf-100pf variable capacitor (Hard to find)     
     2   - F61a chassis-type coaxial connectors (RS #278-212)
     12" - No. 12 solid copper wire
     12" - RG59 coaxial cable
 
 
                       ///INSTRUCTIONS///
 
 
1.  Bare a length of No. 12 gauge solid copper wire and twist
around a 3/8" nail or rod to form a coil of 9 turns. Elongate
coil to a length of 1 1/2" inches and form right angle bends on
each end.
 
2.  Solder the varible capacitor to the coil. It doesn't matter
where you solder it, it still does the same job. The best place
for it is in the center with the adjustment screw facing upward
 Note: When it comes time to place coil in box, the coil must be
insulated from grounding.  This can be done by crazy-glueing a
piece of rubber to the bottom of the box, and securing the coil
to it.
 
3.  Tap coil at points 2 1/2 turns from ends of coil and solder
to coaxial chassis connectors, bringing tap leads through holes
in chassis box.  Use as little wire as possible.
 
4.  Solder resistor to center of coil and ground other end of
resistor to chassis box, using solder lug and small screw.
 
5.  Drill a 1/2" diameter hold in mini-box cover to permit
adjustment of the variable capacitor from the outside. Inspect
the device for defects in workmanship and place cover on
mini-box.  Tighten securely.
 
6.  Place device in line with existing cable on either side of
the coverter box and connect to television set with the short
piece of RG59 coaxial cable. Set television set to HBO channel.
 
7.  Using a plastic screwdriver (non-metalic) adjust the varible
capacitor until picture tunes in. Sit back, relax, and enjoy!!!

 
Page 123




Press S   to Stop, P to Pause.

  With most of the cable companies scrambling their signals on
most all new and    some old channels I thought I'd update and
revise my first version (1.0) of Pay Tv Decoder   Plans.
  Due to different scrambling systems, you might find it
neccesary to change the range and values of  the variable
capacitator.  I've also  added a wiring diagram to help you with
designing the  circut.    If you   have any questions just leave
a message on the board listed at   the end   of the article.

                 (Tom) Hackerman


                  ///PAY TV DECODER PLANS///
                       Version 2.0


                 ///MATERIALS REQUIRED:///

1   - Radio Shack mini-box ( #270-235)
1   - 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k-2.4k ohm (RS #271-1325)
1   - 75pf-100pf variable capacitor (Very hard to find)
2   - F61a chassis-type  coaxial connectors (RS #278-212)
12" - No. 12 solid copper wire
12" - RG59 coaxial cable


                      ///INSTRUCTIONS///

1.  Bare a length of No. 12 gauge solid copper wire and     twist
around a 3/8" nail or    rod to form a coil of 9  turns. Elongate
coil to a length of 1 1/2" inches and form   right angle bends on
each end.

2.  Solder the varible capacitor to the coil. It doesn't matter
where you solder it, it still does the same job.
The best place for it is in the center with the adjustment screw
facing upward 

Note: When it comes time to place coil in box,    the coil must
be insulated from grounding.  This can be    done by   crazy-
glueing   a piece   of rubber to the bottom of the box, and 
securing the coil to it. 

3.  Tap   coil at   points 2 1/2 turns from ends of    coil and
solder    to coaxial chassis  connectors, bringing tap leads
through   holes in chassis box.  Use as little wire as possible.

Page 123b


4.  Solder resistor to center of coil and ground other end of
resistor to chassis box, using solder lug and small
screw.


Diagram: Your circut and design    should look something like
this:

           -------------------------
           !                       !
           !                       !
           !         C             !
           !          -----------F16a
           G    2.2k      O --     !
           N----\/\/\---    Vc     !
           D    1/4w      I --     !
           !          -----------F16a
           !         L             !
           !                       !
           !                       !
           -------------------------

5.  Drill a 1/2" diameter hold in mini- box cover to permit
adjustment of the variable capacitor from    the outside.
Inspect   the device for defects in workmanship and    place
cover on minibox.  Tighten securely.

6.  Place device in line with existing cable on either side ofthe
coverter box and connect to television set with the short pieceof
RG59 coaxial   cable. Set television set to HBO channel.

7.  Using a plastic screwdriver    (non-metallic), adjust the
varible capacitor until picture tunes in.     Sit back,
relax, and enjoy!!!


Have fun...

       (Tom) Hackerman

       O S U N Y  B B S
       (914) 725 - 4060
     _  _
|      (_><_)    And if you enjoyed this Text-file, Call:
\________[]_____ The Works "914's Text-file BBS" (914)/238-8195
               _\  300/1200 N81 1200 only from 6:00p to 12:00mid
 ____________  \>\  10 Megabytes on-line Anti-RBBS and Networks
/           >     \     SysOps: Jason Scott  & Terror Ferret
|           =======      (900) Text-files on-line!

Press [Enter] to continue:
Page 123c

..Digital Logic Data Service..



-=+*> The Stone Ship AE/BBS/Gaming System * 312-772-0347 <*+=-

Captured From The Ripco BBS <> 528-5020 <> 4/9/88

most of you are a bit in left field about this cable shit... some
of the methods brought up are really out of date especially with
the systems around the chicago area.

a few explainations are in order i guess...

first off, the bit about tuning your tv up or down one channel is
valid but i doubt if any systems in the country are still using
it. in that type of system none of the channels are scrambled,
only locked out. most of these systems were 35 channel or less
and used a converter which had no remote control. the idea
was simple, the box the company supplied you with had a tuning
pot or slug for each channel. if you ordered basic service, the
company simply re-tuned all the pay channels off band somewhere.
if you changed serviced and wanted one of the pay channels,
either they sent out a new box or sent someone out to re-tune the
old one. turning the tv up or down one channel would work but its
a whole lot easier to get a cable ready tv.

the companies got smart to this and started to use devices called
traps and filters. traps are small round cylinders which do what
the name implies, they trap one or a band of channels. they are
made up of a simple combination of coils and capacitors which are
tuned to block out certain frequencies. thus if the company
wanted to lock out channel 23, a channel 23 trap would be
installed somewhere between the pole and the customers house. it
should be noted that in some areas all the premium channels are
together, lets say starting with channel 30 and going through
channel 36. in this case if the subscriber elects not to take any
of those channels, a single filter is installed to block out all
7 channels. the simpliest way around a trap is just
to remove it. the two problems with this are 
1) since the trap is gone, if the company checks or does an
install in the area and finds it missing, they'll just stick
another one in. 
2) traps usually have collar locks on them meaning
you can sit there all day turning it but it'll never back out.
footnotes to this are 
     1) if the trap is removed, opened then modified and
re-installed, it will remove problem 1.  
     2) the collar lock tools are avaiable from major
electronic distributors.  


Page 124




filters look similar to traps but work opposite meaning they have
to be in the line to get the channel. usually you can tell if
you need a filter if you have one or more channels which 'beep'
in the sound and have bars running through the picture. this beep
and bar shit is injected into the cable channel and the filter
removes it via a deep notch, narrow band filter.

all of the above is a breif explanation of the older systems out
there. take note that none of those systems really scramble
anything, just either hide the channels, block them or inject
noise to stop common tv and vcr's from getting the signal. it
should also be noted that most systems today do not used the
above methods exclusively. most systems use some kind of
scrambling but many use combinations of different things. one
example is chicago cable which services the south and east areas
of chicago. on thier system, the 5 pay channels are setup so that
2 of them are trapped, 1 requires a filter and the other 2 are
scrambled by a encoding method called scientific atlanta. one
point to keep in mind is that the chicago cable company does not
use what is called 'an addressable system' at the current time.
i'll explain this later along with some notes on group w's
system.

in general some other things to keep in mind are besides the beep
and bar method, you will always get audio from a scrambled
channel. basically what i am saying is that the audio is never
altered in any encoding technique. the exception to this could be
a decoder known as the oak sigma which is rumored to
have a digital encoding scheme similar to the type used on
satellite. in any cable system there is always a way around it. 

in larger more up to date systems like group w of chicago, it is
easier to order the equipment needed than try to screw around
with their box. one warning in order is that whatever you buy may
become junk soon and there is always the possiblity of a mail
order rip-off. cable companies are always working around
ways to stop the cheaters. what worked for years could easily
become a boat anchor at the push of a button.

group w uses a system which is quite common in many areas of the
country. it is an addressable system, quite sophisicated. the
actual encoding technique however is rather stone age and there
are many ways around it. here is an explanation on the
addressable system.....

in the last message i brought up the older systems and how if the
customer wanted to change service the company would have to
replace or modify the box. in an addressable system this is no

Page 125



longer needed. each box contains what would be easiest to explain
as a computer in it. there is a cpu, rom and ram. each box also
contains an electronic serial number programmed in by the
company. in the cable system itself there is a special data
carrier buried in the spectrum somewhere. in group w's system the
carrier (i think) is at around 106.5 mHz which by chance is in
the normal FM band. another words if you detach the cable
from your box and hook it up to a normal FM radio, tune the dial
down around 106-107, you should hear something similar to a modem
carrier.

this carrier instructs the cpu for a particular box on how to
operate. think of the system as a 'chat line'. the data is sent
to all boxes at the same time but only the one with the serial
number its looking for will respond.
this is why the person who said to change your service then take
the box to a friends house won't work. it doesn't matter where
the box is hooked up on the system, the point is if its hooked up
at all, it'll get the message.

another feature of the addressable system is that each channel
can be controlled independant of the others. each channel on the
system has something called 'tag data' which is a set of bytes
creating an electronic signature unique for that channel. the
tags are usually 4 bytes. thus hbo could have something like 1010
while showtime is 1100 and so on. these tags are actually
what controls what you watch. when you first get service the box
is usually 'open' meaning all services are available then in a
day or 2 (sometimes less) you loose all the channels except what
you pay for. when the box is addressed for the first time, a
'look-up' table is established. this table, stored in ram,
contains all the tag codes you are authorized to watch. when
you go to a channel, the box looks at the table and sees if it
can find a match within the table. if it finds one, you get to
watch, if not it either goes to snow or jumps to a different
channel. 

this is why group w offers pay per views and chicago cable does
not. since chicago cable uses a non-addressable system, there is
no way for them to control the boxes besides sending someone out.
this may change.
on group w when you order a PPV or change service, your box is
once again addressed and a new table is setup. no one is needed
to come out to your place.

now you have to understand that the addressing system is far more
complex and is really a bitch to get around. another feature of
it is that things just don't happen once. there is a function
called 'global addressing' which is a set of data sent to all 
Page 126




boxes. these globals are not for any one box in particular but
for all authorized boxes on line. global takes care of you guys
that think by changing service then unplugging the box for a
couple days will give you free service. globals are usually sent
several times a day and many occasions, all the time during
normal business hours.

another good feature of this is even if you block the data
carrier, the box will go dead by itself. it needs the global just
to run normally.


another words you need the global to keep the box running but if
you get one and the company is supposed to change your service,
you'll get knocked out anyway. damned if you do, damned if you
don't i suppose.

a few footnotes again... yes the model 450 they use can be jumped
out however the information is illegal so don't bother to ask.
the turn on method is not 100% anyway and fucks up the regular
channels. plus if you plan on returning the box, they'll know you
have been in there. for those of you that have the tempation on
opening things... don't bother with the pioneer boxes group w
also uses on thier system. they have a tamper switch in them
which will kill the box 100%. the only way to get it restarted is
to return it but they'll know why the box went dead. there is an
error code the cpu puts out. by the way the programming port on
the pioneer is on the bottom under that small peice of plastic.

summing all of this up, if you really have to cheat the system
the best way is to order the stuff you need. radio-electronics
and nuts & volts magazine have many ads from companies that
supply tricked out equipment, usually the same stuff the
companies use. many of these companies are rip offs. the larger
ones that take out full or half page ads usually are not but
there is always the chance. the other point to keep in mind is
that the stuff may not work in the first place. rumor has it that
group w at least is changing the system so that all
non-authorized boxes on line will go bad. things heard from
thier southern area seem to point that this is true.

the funny thing about stealing cable is that you have to spend
some money to do it. it seems to me if you can afford it, you
might as well pay for it. the $250 or so bucks you spend for that
pirate box buys a shitload of programming for the next couple
years, without the worry of chucking the box because they
jammed it. 


Page 127



this and the last 2 messages are just an intro and some of the
information does not apply to other cable systems. maybe one of
these days i'll write a file about it but not now. there are at
least 8 major encoding systems out there, each one unique and
with the posibilty of combining 2 or more onto a single
system, it gets complicated. 

general questions are welcome but anything going over the line to
actually breaking the law is out. all information provided above
is available from different publications and public domain
sources.

                                                Dr. Ripco



 

































Page 128



****************************************   _________________
        Cable tV Pirating                 /  Capitalized for\
                                         / to make it easier \  N
          Part 1                         \    to be read     /
                                          \by all those with/   I
     Composed by:                         /      BAD        \
                                         /       eyes!       \  K
                 Logic God               \    Just Do It!    /
                                          \_________________/   E
****************************************

Today I   will cover the most commonly used method of cable
scrambling, that of inband gated sync. For the more    comatose
of you, I will now present a brief discription of how it works
and   why it is so commonly used.

The simplest first: It is often used because the boxes are so
damn cheap. The gated sync unscramblers do not even require a
tuner, the whole process is   done semi-passively and requires no
internal  connections to the tV. Hence, an easy way out for the
Cable Companies     who insult you by thinking all its
subscribers are average DOLTS, not requ- iring thier attention. 
(hmm...Ma Bell must have thought that way once    
chuckle...)

The basic workings of the gated    sync are as follows:      
First, I must define a sync pulse. It is a part of the tV's video
signal which   lines the signal up,        /-----------/
    {HEY, Nike, nice way to spell TV.}----/
causing   it to come out all nice  and neat so you see a good
picture. What gated sync does is to     remove that portion of
the signal, and transmit it on a subcarrier with  the rest of the
signal.   This results in the scrambled mess you see when you
desperate ones try to watch the Playboy Channel and your parents
haven't   subscribed to it. Now, keep in mind, the sync portion
of the signal is not distorted at all,  but merely transmitted on
a slightly diverted frequency. Thus, it remains in time with the
rest of the signal, and needs only to be recombined with the rest
of the signal. This is much simpler than it may seem. All the
circuit must be able to do is to recieve the sync pulses,   and
retransmit them on the original frequency, where they will be
lined up properly.  "But" You may say, "Isnt that rather
diffiult?" not at all, my friends.

Think of your video modulator:     It must transmit the entire
signal, and it is only about 2" X  1" X 1". The recieving is
simple: The reciever doesn't need to be able to   change
channels-the cable companies need only have thier unscram- blers
set for   the channel the box recieves on, because that is the
only one it will be necessary to   unscramble. will be using.

Page 128b



How to figure out if you have gated sync
----------------------------------------

Scrambling:
-----------

This method of scrambling is characterized by correct   sound,
and a picture that is allllmoooost normal, if you could just get
the vertical hold to work a little more. If  you want to be 100%
sure, call up your Cable Co's Customer Help Line and ask. I know
this sounds ridiculous, but I called Century Cable     in
Calif.    for the   Pope, and it worked for  me. Just play it
cool and say "What kind of scrambling method are you using?" and
I they    should give it to you.
  {Tell   them yer from some BS company, and tell them yer taking
a survery if they   won't tell you.     Have a little story ready
just in case, but they gave it to me alright (Thanks much!)}
Incidentally, Century Cable does use gated sync, for anyone in
California who happens   to read   this.

Places to get gated sync units:
-------------------------------

Well, the best place to  look is   in the back of electronics
magazines- not the idiot ones like Popular   Elec- tronics (does
it even still exist?) but the dedicated electronics ones- like
Radio-Electronics (best) or 73, the Amateur Radio Technical 
Journal.
Here is   an address which I got out of;
         Radio Electronics, August  1985, p.110:
Gated Sync: Kit     form, all parts, instructions, very good,    
                       $39. 
Write to: J&W Electronics, Inc. P.O. Box 800 Mansfield, MA  02048
          Fone: 1-800-227-8529 (Orders) 
                617-339-5372 (Tech. Info)

  ***************************************

       Look for Part     II Soon,
      Covering Over-The-Air Pay
             tV.

         Later on,
               Logic God.                    ////////\\\\\\\\\\
                                            /   Lookee here,   \
Call       K.A.O.S.:     215-465-3593       /                  \
                                            /       Part II    \
       ---==>>Have Fun!<<==--               /                  \
                                            / Is it soon enough\
***************************************     /       for you?   \
Page 128c                                   /////////\\\\\\\\\\\



        Pirating Cable tV
          Part 2

     Composed by:

                   Logic God

***************************************

Today we will discuss over the Air Pay tV scrambling. This is
used widely in many areas without Cable, and all of the systems
in use    use essentialy the same system,    that of   SSAVI
scrambling.

Discussion of SSAVI scrambling:    
SSAVI stands for Suppressed Sync, Audio Video Inversion. 

     This  method of encoding video transmissions was devel- oped
by the Zenith Radio Corporation, who manufactures the vast
majority of     legal unscramblers used today     with this
method. suffice to say, SSAVI is the Anti Christ of Cable   
Pirates. The system in-  volves several less sophisticated
methods combined to  produce  a severely scrambled signal which
is very difficult to decode without the proper hardware.    (IE,
a real box.) It is   illustraed by the name: Suppressed Sync: 
     This is the method dis- cussed in part 1 of this
series,   only worse. The sync portion of    the signal is not
transmitted on an audio subcarrier, but in lines 1-14 of the
picture information which are not seen on the screen. Hence, the
box must  be able   to isolate the first 14  lines of video and
extract the information from them. Audio: The audio is
transmitted on a subcarrier   in a similar fashion as  the sync
pulses    in part   1. If you will Remember, the audio was  
normal in the suppressed sync method. 

Video Inversion:

The video signal is randomly inverted at the scrambling     
stage, resulting in a Negative picture when the signal is
inverted.  (yes, like a camera negative.) The indicator for
wether the upcoming frame of video will be inverted is also sent
in the    first 14 lines of video, allowing the   box to begin
inverting the signal before you see it.

All of these little bits of evilness exist independently of each
other.    The signal may have all, none, or any comb-  inationof
these things. Because of this, the box must be very intelligent.
also, because the box is used so widely,     it must   have a
tuner, allowing your local transmitter to select  what

Page 128d


channel   they are using by tuning the box before they give it to
you. All this makes for a real fun time when you go to unscramble
your signal.

Box Thoery: The suppressed sync signal is transved from the first
few  lines of video mitted normally in the first few lines   of
video, which, incidentally, are transmitted normally. The box
'sees' these 14 normal sync pulses, and calibrates itself to
reproduce these sync pulses for the rest of the frame of
video. It then inserts these pulses where they are needed in the
signal to produce   a normal picture. Thus recalibration every
frame is necessary, though.   Sync pulses occur over 500 times
every second, and if the clock     were not constantly revamped,
it could get out of sync (oh god) with  itself.
     Audio:
The audio is transmitted on a subcarrier deviated about     
15khz. All the box does to the audio is retransmit the audio on
the proper frequency.    
     Video Inversion: 
The video signal is randomly  inverted, but the mode (inverted
vs. normal)    can only be switched between frames, not between
fields, making the job of detection and reinversion slightly
easier.   The box   looks at a portion of line (2, I think) and
based on the logic level at a certian point in this line of
video, the box reroutes the signal through an operational
amplifier's inverting input. as a result, a  signal recieved
inverted is now correct, and a frame of video 'seen' as normalis
not routed through the inverter, and    sent straight to the RF
modulator, which retransmits  the corrected signal to  the tV
set, usually on channel  3.

Physical description of  the Zenith SSAVI Decoder: 

The box is approx. 11" by 7", and about 2.5" tall, including
rubber feet. It has a round vertical travel pushbutton switch in
the rear  left top corner, and in  a small   metal label on
the top   center of the box is engraved  Zenith SSAVI-1
about 1.5" by .75". There are 3 Female F Connectors on the
left rear, and a 3 pin power connector on the bottom right  rear.
the case is brown, with a wood grained  strip running around the
horizontal center. a rather formidable device.

Some intresting     features of the     SSAVI system: 
(when used by the pay-tv companies, koff koff) 
Because of the extreme to which the scrambling of the  signal
is taken, the system provides more security against the     
casual basement cable wizard than any   of the other systems in
use today, save those now being implemented by various satellite
transmitters.  
These are really mean:   Digital Video Transcription, fluctuating
transmission   frequency, and other fun stuff.    but that is
Page 128e



another file, coming later.   In addition to the complexity of
the scrambling,     Each box is given its own internal id number,
allowing each box to be addressed  by the transmitter and shut
off  in the event a customer  does not pay   his bill. In
addition, each box  contains a firmware code which is constantly
being compared to that transmitted by   the station. Hence, a
stolen box wold not work in another city, where it cannot be
turned off by the normal method due to the fact that some one may
already be using a box containing the same security code.   

There are several more codes stored in the box:   Those
which determine the services to which a subscriber is entitled.
(such as optional sporting events, nite life, etc.) These codes
are stored in a volitile memory powered by a rechargeable
battery,  To allow reprogramming from the station. This also
means that if the box is stolen and/or left unpowered for
several   days, the battery will run down and the authorization
codes will be lost.

Well, as usual, where there is security, there will be security
breakers, and this is no exception. Talk to these people about
getting your own SSAVI box:

       Video   Electronics
       3083 Forest Glade DR.
       Windsor, Ontario N8R 1W6
       Fone:   519 944   6443

AccorDing to them, the box also works with SSAVI cable
systems.  This is the real thing, made by Zenith. Why  do you
think you have to get it through Canada?

Channels these people guarantee the SSAVI box to work on: 
     Ann Arbor 31,            Baltimore 54, 
     Wash. D.C. 50,           Chicago 66, 
     Dallas     27,           Minneapolis,St Paul 23, 
     San Jose 48,             St. Louis 30, 
     Tulsa 41,                Boston    27.

Well, there you have it. They want $130 for the box, and with a
$21/month fee it will pay for itself in 6 months. Have a
good time.              {{Or you can use the Carding files, and
                                             get it for free!}}
                      
                 Logic   God





Page 128f


***************************************

        Coming Soon:
           #3
       Cable   Converters

Call:       K.A.O.S.:215 465 3593

For questions, I can be  reached   at these (among others)  
boards.

            -=>Later<=-


***************************************

       Pirating Cable t.V.
            #3                            ___________
                                         /           \
           Composed by:                  \Pretty damn/
                                         /  fast, eh?\
                    Logic God            \___________/  

      ***Cable Converters***

***************************************

First, a plea. I need a  recipe for Nitrous Oxide. 
(laughing gas.) if anyone knows where I can get one, or has a
file  on "how  to", !Please! contact me at K.A.O.S.-215-
465-3593, or leave it on a few of the more popular AE
lines.    thank you.

**************************************

Cable Converters:Required knowledge.
------------------------------------

1. Most scrambled cable  channels are transmitted either    
between   channel   13 and channel 14 ('midband' transmitting) or
below channel 2 ('superband' transmitting. thus, if you recieve
the cut rate   bottom of the line cable service (such as the 3
networks and a few community stations) you may never even
get a chance to see the  scrambled channels, let alone try to
unscramble them.
Hence, we usher in the <>. These are  nothing 
new or illegal, mind you, they can be purchased at Radio    
Shack.    They were originally intended for the video cassette
recorder owner (that is, the ones that are sold on the open
market.) His rented cable converter and unscrambler, usually
combined in the same tV top box, were busy faithfully
Page 128g


unscrambling and converting to channel 3 the program he was
currently watching. However, if he wanted to tape something on an
 !un!scrambled channel that was transmitted in the midband or
superband mode, he was up shit creek, because he  had no way to
get the   signal down to a frequency his tV or VCR could recieve.
But if he hooked up his little Radio Shack Converter, Presto! He
was set.

2. Now is a good time to make clear an important point.     Cable
converters do !not! unscramble a scrambled signal, they merely
move it tou with 'cable ready' TVs think you're home free now,
eh? no. While a cable ready TV will let you view any mid and
superband channels that  you may    unknowingly recieve, the
scrambled ones  are still scrambled. So what do you need now? An
unscrambler, of course.

  ***************************************

4. It may be necessary to explain what is actually happening in
your boxes that you rent from the Cable Co. thus: -----     If
you have bothered to pay extra for any scrambled channels,  you
are  given an unscrambler and converter by the Cable Co. For 
which you gladly pay rent in addition to your cable fee. This is
usually a brown box that comes in several styles, expounded upon
below:

Digital with remote:
     A small box upon your tV, with a digital display of the
channel you are watching. You have a trusty remote, and zap away
at will.

Knob style:
     A box or non-wireless remote with a large knob on it.   It,
of course, selects  what channel you are watching.

Switchboard style: 
     A 9" x 5" (or so) board with  several 3 position vertically
moving switches. What the Hell do these do? You'll never guess.

The kind without any switches: (now how will I operate my digital
watch?) This is called a block converter. more on these later.

  ***************************************

What is going on: 
     Ahhh,     the good part. 
What happens here is this: No matter what system you   have
(except for the last- ignore that for now.) in some way
you select a channel. The cable converter runs off, finds this
channel, and yanks it down to channel 3 (or 2, or 4,   whatever
your cable co. uses.) where your tV is waiting for it.  (yes,
Page 128h


thats why you  put your tV on the same  channel and change
channels with the knob, remote, or whatever.) Now, if it's a
scrambled channel, and you are authorized to recieve it, the
signal is rerouted through    a small   unscrambler.   (a note:
cable scrambling methods are piddly little hindrances; for a real
bitch of a scrambler see the SSAVI system, explained in part 2.)
     The signal is again spat out at channel 3, and your tV
glows happily away, displaying your mid or superband channel.

5. At this point, a question may by nudging around your temporal
lobes now. Something along the lines of " How do I get cable tV
without paying for  it, Dammit??" 
{{{NO FUCKING SHIT, i WAS WAITNG FOR YOU TO GET TO THIS!!}}}
Well, here we  go. You   look up   that place I mentioned in part
II. (address & phone# at end) Just fork over your $130 (or
someone else's credit card) and get one of these nifty little
unscramblers. Now, mind  you, the cable co. wants it's (your?)
money more than you think, and will be rather upset if they find
you doing any  of this shit, so take care. Here's how to hook up
your un- scrambler:

First, adjust the unscrambler to recieve the channel your tV is
set on to recieve   a signal fron the cable  box. Next, sendthe
output of the real box to the unscrambler, and the output   of
the unscrambler to the tV. you're all set!
Just sit back and watch  those porn flicks pour in.

6. If you change channels with your tV set, and   you don't have
a box, get a cable converter  and an unscrambler. Your service is
too basic to rate a converter, so you have to get one. Just make
sure it has some sort of channel selector on it-all selected
channels must be output on the same channel  so the unscrambler
can  unscramble them. Sorry.

***************************************

7. How to make this much easier on yourself: 
     There is a much easier way to do all of this shit, but you
sacrifice ease for legality. That is, even though what you would
have done if I wasn't telling you this was illegal, this is more
illegal. But let's be realistic- does anyone give a shit of any
size whatsoever? NO. Of course not. Therefore: ----------

Beating   the Cable Co. at thier own game is easier than you
would think.
Firstly, call up your Cable Co.'s Customer (hee hee) Service
number, and tell them what optional channels you  currently
subscribe to,  and ask them if you would have to get a new  box
if you wanted to add some channels. Chances are they will say no,
because most of the boxes have a small computer in them which

Page 128i



can be told over the cable what you are authorized to recieve,
(neat, huh?).
This is the same computer which decides wether the channel you
want to watch gets sent to the unscrambler portion of the box or
not. So if they say no, you're in good shape. If they say yes,
you are in a little bit better shape than if they say no. ifthey
say no, this means  they change your authorizations inside the
box by changing hardware- that is, connecting sets of wires.

How to change your authorizations:(yay) 
     First, the hardware boxes-they're easier. According to some
people I've talked to, the cable companies get highly (very)
pissed off if you play with thier boxes, so you have to get hold
of one they don't know you have- remember, they will want your
rented box back when you move and will get unhappy if you have
been monkeying with it. 
     Getting a box: 
          A. Steal One.  
          B. Say somebody stole yours, your dog shat upon   it,
               or whatever. 
          C. Find some unethical person  (druggie) who will sell
               his for a few bucks.

     Changing a hadware box:
          1. Open the box without  destroying it. This can be a
real challenge sometimes. While at the Sheraton Washington (Wash,
D.C.) attending the model un last year, I stole one from
someone's room and tried to get it apart for about an hour so we
could watch the flicks thst night- I gave up, got drunk, and
threw it out   of a window-no, it didn't break.  (yes,
incidentally, for anyone in the Wash, D.C. area, there is one in
every room of the Sheraton Washington. good point- Ritzy hotels
are great places to get those boxes.)

2. Look for a small set  of sockets, such as an integrated
circuit socket without a chip in it. It will have wires in it
instead.  If you can't find one of those, look for a dip
switch-these are the same size     as an integrated circuit, fit
in an IC socket, and have the same number of switches on it as
pins on   one side of the IC socket.

3. Try to correspond the wires or the positions of the switches
with the channels you pay for. These wires or switches are how
the box is programmed- Try turning all  of the switches on, and
putting all of the wires in, and see if you get more   channels.
Conversely, try removing wires and turning switches off.




Page 128j





  ***************************************

  Cable   Programmed Boxes:  -----------------------

These are a bit more difficult. you have to try to seperate the
three sections- computer, reciever(conveter) and unscrambler.
when you isolate the computer section, just bypass it  com-
pletely.  Find the output of the converter and the input of the
unscrambler and just hook them together. As you can probably
see, this just does not  permit the computer to have a say in
what gets unscrambled-incidentally, This will work for the
hardware boxes, but it is usually  pretty easy to find the  
little wiring panel/switchboard and you do not have to figure out
what is what   inside the unscrambler.

*************************************** 
Well, I hope this helps, and if you desperately need to ask a
question, you  can get   me at:
     K.A.O.S.-215 465 3593
     The Church AE-215 386 0350 

PW Ataru and I will be glad to answer.

*************************************** 
Here's the address I promised:

         Unscramblers
         ------------

Warning: This unscrambler will not work with those channels that
make that obnoxious beeping noise. This is a gated sync un-
scrambler. To  find out if this will work in your area, get that
good 'ol cust.service number and call and ask if they use   
suppressed horizontal sync as thier scrambling method. Yes,
they will tell you.



     J & W Electronics,  Inc.
     Mansfield,     MA 
           02048
     Fone:1-800-227-8529 (Orders)
          617-339-5372 (Tech Info)





Page 128k





**************************************

Well, thank you for sitting through 350 lines of my ravings. If
you download this, please give it to    all. Up with the
individual!

***************************************

     Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going
     to   kick back and smoke a Marlboro.

       -=> Good Luck. <=-

***************************************


































Page 128l




Displaying CALL3.TXT:




 
 
3 WAY PHONE CALLS!


[1] You will need two diff. lines for this plan. Go and open the
green box outside your house, or open your phone. Take off both
boxes covering the wires.


[2] Take the Green and Red from each box and attach a wire to
each of these. One wire to the Green wire and one wire
to the Red. Same on the other box.


[3] You should have 4 wires (2 for each box) Then get a two way
switch with two terminals. Hook the two Green wires to one side
and the Red wires to the other side. Then, when you switch
the switch you should hear a dial tone and then just dial out and
you will be able to talk to two people at one TYME.






 

















Page 129











                      Look, A free Horsie!
                      ----- - ---- -------





Adopt-A-Horse

In order to control the population of wild horses and burros
grazing on public land, the U.S.  Department of the Interior
offers these animals for adoption to qualified applicants.  For
further information and adoption applications contact:

  Adopt-A-Horse, Bureau of Land Management, U.S.  Department of
          the Interior, Washington, DC 20240.


























Page 130

                                                                                                                              
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