[Contents] [Part 2]

HOW THE E-METER WORKS

1.

This is a Hubbard Electrometer called an E-Meter for short. Technically it is a specially developed "Wheatstone Bridge" well known to electrically minded people as a device to measure the amount of resistance to a flow of electricity.

2.

Some materials conduct electricity more easily than others. Wire used in electrical systems is a good conductor.

3.

The human body is not such a good conductor and the E-Meter has been specially designed by L. Ron Hubbard to measure the large and minute changes, be they slow or rapid, in the electrical resistance of a human body. Electrical resistance is measured in ohms. The resistance of a dead female body is 5,000 ohms and of a dead male body, 12,500 ohms.

  4.

When. however, the resistance of a live body is measured it can be as low as 500 ohms or as high as 1,000,000 ohms. These figures are mentioned as a matter of interest and to show the wide divergence of the electrical resistance of a body when it is inhabited.

5.

Tests conclusively show that an individual's emotional state, his thoughts, etc., instantly raise or lower the electrical resistance of the body. Thus the meter is an extremely valuable tool in the hands of a trained auditor. The various manifestations and their significances are fully covered in "E-Meter Essentials" by L. Ron hubbard. We in Scientology have come to accept the fact that the E-Meter "talks" to us.

6.

We rarely give much thought to the hours and hours of work and research put in by L. Ron Hubbard, resulting in the perfect instrument - the Mark V - and an exact exposition of what the various reading and changes mean. Here we see Ron checking a new Mark V against the prototype (on the left). This prototype is kept by Ron in a safe and is used by him from time to time to make sure that the standard of manufacture is maintained. It was made to his exact specifications and assembled in a Mark IV case. Self Portrait

 
  9.

The inner workings are intricate and made to Ron's exact specification. The technically minded will see that it has a "printed" circuit (thus avoiding mis-duplication) and is fully transistorised (no delicate valves or tubes). It is robust but as with all precision instruments should be handled with respect and care. Note: Only half a volt is passed through the body. This is negligible.

 

SETTING UP THE E-METER

10.

To familiarise yourself with the mechanical functions first open the lid and detach it.

11.

Turn the lid around and connect the hinge pieces together.

12

Then fasten the hooks on to the studs.

13.

Turn the "Set-Transit-Test" knob to "Test" and the "on-off" switch to 1. The needle should go hard over to the right.

14.

If the needle does not go right over then the battery requires recharging, so to do this you need the "charging lead" supplied with every meter.

15

Connect the charging lead to the meter and then to A.C. (Alternating Current) mains. This is the usual domestic supply. Leave the "Set-Transit-Test" knob at "Test" and the "on-off" switch at 1. If the voltage of your mains supply is 220/240 volts the meter should be left connected to the mains for 14 hours. If it is 110 volts A.C. the meter should be left for 28 hours. In both cases the battery will be fully charged and will give about 40 hours of use. Do not connect to a D.C. (Direct Current) supply.

16

Subsequently it is advisable to keep a log of the time a meter is in use so that it can be re-charged in good time. If and when the battery is charged turn the "Set-Transit-Test" knob to "Set". The meter is now operable.

17.

Turn the "Tone Arm" until it points to 2 (F). this is the position of the 5,000 ohms previously referred to. (3 (M) is the 12,5000 ohms position). Now turn the sensitivity knob - it is also the "on-off" switch - to the maximum marked on the dial (16 or 32). The meter shown here is one of the earlier models on which the sensitivity dial is graduated from 1 to 16. (Later models have a dial graduated from 1 to 32.)

18.

Now turn the "trim" knob - clockwise the needle will go to the right, anti-clockwise to the left. Leave it when the needle is in the "set" position. The meter is now correctly adjusted for use.

19.

Turn the sensitivity knob back to 1. The needle will only move a small amount, if at all.

THE SENSITIVITY KNOB

20.

By moving the Tone Arm you will notice that the needle also moves. The Tone Arm, therefore, can control the position of the needle. If you move the Tone Arm clockwise the needle will go clockwise and vice versa.

21.

Move the Tone Arm to 1.5 so that the needle is to the extreme left of the dial. Do not move the Tone Arm more than is necessary to bring the needle over to the left.

22.

Now move the Tone Arm in a clockwise direction until the needle is just in the "test" part of the dial. Note the Tone Arm is now at 2.5.

23.

Move the Tone Arm back to 1.5. Put the Sensitivity knob to No. 4 or 8 on a meter that is numbered to 32.

24.

Next move the Tone Arm clockwise until the needle is in the "test" portion of the dial (do not move the Tone Arm more than is necessary). Note the Tone Arm has only had to be moved to about 2.0. So you see that the needle is more sensitive to the Tone Arm as the sensitivity knob is moved up to a higher number. Try this for yourself by turning the sensitivity knob to a higher number and then notice how much less you need to move the Tone Arm in order to move the needle across the dial.

 

25.

Therefore increasing the sensitivity by putting the sensitivity knob to a higher number magnifies the movement of the needle. It is important that you understand that the Tone Arm Motion is constant. It is the needle action which is magnified or decreased by the adjustment of the sensitivity knob. The meter can be made even more sensitive by turning the "Sensitivity Booster" to 32, which will double the sensitivity, or to 64 which quadruples the sensitivity (64 or 128 in later models).

[Contents] [Part 2]