This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups "alt.locksmithing", "alt.answers", and "news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing" and can be read at http://www.faqs.org/ (You'll have to click on the "alt" Hierarchy, and then select this faq by clicking. You can also retrieve this FAQ by email; send mail to "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" with "send usenet/alt.locksmithing/*" contained in the BODY of the message.
A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed at indra.com on the
World Wide Web using "http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/".
Version 6.51 Last changed 12/31/01
Another balancing act regards the general effect of information. As Joe K. put it succinctly, "On one side there are the idealists who believe that even weak security should not be further compromised without good reason; on the other there are those who believe that weak locks should be forced out of the market. There's never going to be agreement here... can we just agree that reasonable people can disagree, and have done with it?"
People have contrasted locksmithing "security by obscurity" with practice in the software arena (in which it has generally been considered to be misguided and therefore be bad for society.) Exposing flaws as a social good breaks down when there are hundreds of thousands of current owners of the product who don't know that the flaw has been exposed. Even if they find out, there is another big difference. This is the cost of correcting the flaw (upgrading.) Installing the patches on your copy of software takes a bit of effort, but you don't have to throw out and purchase a new physical product (such as a lock.) The manufacturer of the lock is pretty certain not to make it available for free. Basically you have to buy a new item and have it replaced, and this adversly impacts users, many of whom do not have the budget to correct the flaw. Therefore publishing the security flaw costs users *much* more for a lock than for a piece of software.
And the fact is that a nominally flawed product _does_ provide adequate security against the unmotivated and ignorant who are the primary folks attacking physical security systems (as opposed to the motivated and clueful who attack electronic security and can do it from a distance without physical presence).
The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
Steve Haehnichen <steve@vigra.com> maintained an archive of GIF
and JPEG images of picks located at
ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
which are useful guides for those making their own picks. But this link
isn't working right now - this is being checked.
Note that the prosecution has to prove "intent". However, the law
continues: "The possession of such burglarious tools, implements
or outfit by any person other than a licensed dealer, shall be
prima facie evidence of an intent to commit burglary, robbery or
larceny." This means that the possessor can have a bit of an uphill
battle and has to convince the jury that this 'prima facie evidence'
is misleading.
Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
Another archive has
some pickes illustrated, but does not show the rake pick.3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to
be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, police department, or your own attorney to be sure. Possession
of potential "burglar tools" can be be used as evidence against you if
you are found in incriminating circumstances. An example of a state law
can be found in the Viginia State Code: Section 18.2-94
_Possession of burglarious tools, etc._
"If any person have in his possession any tools, implements or
outfit, with intent to commit burglary, robbery or larceny, upon
conviction thereof he shall be guilty of a Class 5 felony."
The District of Columbia, New York State and Illinois. New Jersey law
appears to make these illegal if they can work motor vehicle locks.
There may be many other places as well (such as Canada, Maryland
and California.) It can be hard to tell since the relevant laws
can be dealing with burglary, motor vehicles or locksmith regulation,
etc. This emphasizes the importance of finding out for *your* area
- and determining the applicability to *your* circumstances (e.g.,
locksmith, full or part-time), repo worker, building maintenance
worker, ...
4. Where can I get the "MIT
Guide to Picking Locks"?
The author of the
"MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool", has posted a PostScript(TM)
version of the Guide which can be retrieved via ftp from:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
Dave Ferret <ferret@works.uucp> scanned/typed in a version of the
Guide, it is a file of the text of the Guide and a collection of GIFs of
the diagrams. This can be found in ZIP and tar format in:
A Web version can be found at The Document Which
Was Formerly Called the MIT Guide
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial
Mattias Wingstedt <wing@lysator.liu.se> has converted the Guide to HTML and made it available on the Web at http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html.
Ken Waldron <kwaldron@idirect.com> has converted the Guide to MS Word
format and it can be retrieved via ftp from:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/mitguideMSW.zip
Since this is a zipped file, you will need to set ftp to binary mode and
then unzip it after retrieving it. You may want to start by retrieving
the small mitguideMSE.README file first.
4b. I can't print the Guide!
Try deleting the two lines that read:
statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
Bill Phillips has written a number of locksmithing books. For the
beginning or aspiring locksmith here is an excellent and practical
introduction and overview:
Locksmithing
McGraw-Hill 2000 ISBN 0-07-134436-5
paperbound 7 1/2" x 9", 550 pages, $34.95
An excellent encyclopedic reference:
The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th ed.
McGraw-Hill, Inc. 1995 ISBN 0-07-049866-0 $24.95 (Paper) USA
and another one:
Professional Locksmithing Techniques, 2nd Edition
TAB Books/McGraw-Hill 1996
ISBN 0-07-049867-9 (Paper) $36.95 (Paper)
also many people think highly of:
Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4 4 Volumes $20
Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You
can find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print
Subject Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the
Appendix.
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do
they work?
A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating
pin to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so that the plug can rotate. Some kind of turning pressure is also
needed - either during or a split second after the click. The MIT Guide
has some discussion of this. Pick guns are not a panacea, and aren't always
effective although some people find them to work extremely well. The net
seems to feel that these are no substitute for a little skill with a
pick and learning how locks work. The electrically powered ones are
considerably more expensive, and many question whether they are worth
the cost. Pick guns should not be used on wafer tumbler locks as they
will not pick the lock and can damage the wafers and springs.
The following "ascii art" may make this easier to understand:
\
/ <-- Spring, pushes pins down.
\
|-|
------- | | ------- <-- Shear line, where the
|_| plug meets the cylinder.
|-|
| |
|_|
^ <-- Keyway
|
|
Pick gun delivers
sharp blow to bottom
pin.
With luck, right after the gun delivers its blow:
\
/
\
|-|
| | <-- Top pin thrown up by blow.
|_|
-------------------- <-- Shear line, where the
plug meets the cylinder.
|-|
| | <-- Bottom pin stays in place.
|_|
Three "pick gun" type implements described in _PICK GUNS Lock Picking
for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths_ by John Minnery:
The simple clicker, made from a metal clothes hanger:
Thumb presses here,
then releases with a snap.
|
v
_______________________
/ _____ | |
/ / \ | |
| | | | | <--- Pins go here, where
\ \-----/---------------|--------------- they will receive
\_____/ \ / ^ the force of the
\_/ | "click".
^ |
| ^ Flatten needle with hammer,
| | shorten height with file.
Wrap around something | This part goes into
like a broom handle. | the lock under the pins.
|
This part imparts
force to the needle
which imparts force
to the pins.
Clothespin Clicker:
____________________________________
\ _ --------------| <-- Thin strip of metal placed
-----------/-\___/ \_| in groove cut in top of
-----\-/ \_/ | clothespin.
/_______________/
^
|
Lower part shortened to make operation easier.
Finger pulls up here, and then releases. Force
is transfered to needle, and then pins.
Spring Pick Gun:
____________________ __
/ \ / \
| | / |
| | | |
| | | |
\__ | | | Needle. This part
\ __________ | | _______________ <-- transfers force to
| / | | | pins. Hammer thin,
| | \_| _/ and file down height.
| | |
| | | <-- Trigger. Forefinger pulls here, and
| | | releases with a snap.
| | \
| |
| __ |
| / \ |
|\ || <-- Wrap around something
\_\___/| like a broom handle.
\___/
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite
for a new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to
pick and re-key the lock for you.
Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very possible that you'll damage the bike.
Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)
Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.
Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or
Freon, smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method,
it may be an urban legend.
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
Stan Schwarz <stan@cosmo.pasadena.ca.us> writes:
I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in 5-30 seconds using these tools.However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it, they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.
It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear gloves!
The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your
car for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club
will not stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft
recovery system like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp "DO NOT DUPLICATE" on the copy for
you. If that doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the
"DO NOT DUPLICATE" stamp and try again. Many
locksmiths aren't 'fooled' by the tape, but many key-cutting clerks
don't care.
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exists?
"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may
open a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
'pinned' with master pins.
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof")
locks and other security enhancements for my home?
Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are
not much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless,
you should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.
An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own
premises. Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility,
as well as the locks, doors and windows. Ask your insurance agent, you
may be eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in
your home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and b) installing smoke
detectors and fire extinguishers.
12. What should I do after I read a book?
After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone
of the Kwikset deadbolt which is made to be very easy to take apart.
(Key-in-knob locksets are both more expensive and harder to take
apart.)
You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is picked and the plug rotates minutely - so little that it is felt rather than seen. Then when the second one is picked that will let the plug move, unlocking the lock. Keep on adding stacks. Try picking with the curved finger (or feeler) pick, and also raking.
As you get involved in doing some elementary locksmithing, also learn
about the quality of hardware and how to pick appropriate hardware for
the projected use. There is a quality grade based on testing by ANSI
(the American National Standards Institute) which give an indication of
the resistance of a lockset to wear and unauthorized entry.
There are also many people on the net who are willing to help in various areas. Posting a question on alt.locksmithing can help find someone. One person who is willing to offer free advice about old doors and door locks is Dr. Dorlock (keyl@airmail.net) who tells us, "My only interest is saving old doors from "butchery" by professionals who do not know new solutions to old problems." Write him or check his web page. (Don't write to him about lockpicking.)
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!). Also read The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th
ed. by Bill Phillips which was mentioned above.
Lock companies are starting to use the Internet to distribute information. See the on-line resources section below for many lock related web sites.
But all this reading can help only so much, so you have to continue buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit (assuming you don't have a key machine yet) - filing may take a few minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different size pins, with a plug follower) and do some re-keying for your family or friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with their normal front door key. (Hint - when disassembling a lock you may want to do it inside a transparent plastic bag. Then the small pieces and springs will be trapped and won't go flying across the room, leaving you with a sad look on your face.) (A follower is used to push the plug out, when the pins are at the shear line, therefore keeping the top pins and springs in place. Then the rekeyed plug is used to push out the follower, again keeping the top pins and springs in place. Similarly the follower can be used when loading new springs and top pins, keeping the loaded ones in place.)
Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole saw plus template - I think that Black and Decker makes a good inexpensive one, available at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts for your family and friends - charging them only for the materials plus a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the deadbolt for them, too.
Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler between the
side of the sliding drawer and the cabinet body - carefully inspect some
working cabinets to see what I'm talking about.
13a. How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
Joe Kesselman posted this advice:
The mail-order courses will teach you the very basics -- but that's just a starting point. Their main value is in teaching you what questions to ask and some terminology so you can go on to learn more from other sources. You _can_ get started this way, but it takes determination and considerable additional effort. As with any trade, there's a lot of detail to learn and skills that come only with practice.Joe also points out that locksmithing associations, shows and journals are valuable sources of continuing education.If you're planning to apprentice to an established locksmith (not at all a bad idea) you might want to start by asking around and determining whether the folks in your area would be more likely to give you a chance after you've taken one of these courses. Some consider the course a helpful bootstrap, some don't. In my area, shops seem to be looking for folks who are willing to take on the automotive work so the principals can spend their time doing more interesting (and lucrative) stuff, and I'm not convinced the learn-at-home classes teach much that's useful about this corner of the field.
The National Locksmith (a monthly trade journal) requires some form of
affiliation with the locksmithing/security industry for subscription or
for purchase of their training manuals - here's the contact info:
The National Locksmith Magazine
Marc Goldberg, Publisher
NATLLOCK@aol.com
http://www.TheNationalLocksmith.com/
They also sell a variety of books and software.
1533 Burgundy Pky
Streamwood, IL 60107
630-837-2044
Jay Hennigan added:
... However, the best way to really learn the trade is by working in a real lock shop for a period of time. There are "tricks of the trade" that can only be learned in such an environment, and this trade tends to be more secretive than most, due to the (IMHO misguided) belief in "security through obscurity".
Foley-Belsaw, and perhaps other correspondence schools, will often send
out a series of offers with lower and lower prices if you wait after you
first ask and get their initial (highest) price. People report that the
F-B price eventually goes down to $499, and one person has said $399.
6301 Equitable Rd.,Kansas City,MO,64120
800-821-3452,816-483-4200,Fax:,816-483-5010
Another mass market correspondence school is NRI Schools 4401 Connecticut Ave, NW, Washington, DC 20008-2323, 1-800-321-4634 Ext. 3650 202-244-1600 Fax:202-244-2047
Some more schools - (Res. means a residential program, Cor. means
correspondence) Thanks to Marc
Goldberg of THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH for compiling this list. (See
elsewhere in this FAQ for his Web site, etc.)
Acme School of Locksmithing 11350 S. Harlem,Worth,IL,60482
708-361-3750 Fax:,708-448-9306(Res.)
California Institute of Locksmithing 14721 Oxnard St. Van Nuys,CA,91411
College of Security Technology & Management
12800 South U.S. 71,Grandview,MO,60430 816-765-5551 Fax:816-765-1777
Colorado Lks. College Inc. 4991 W. 80th Ave. Unit 103A,Westminster,CO,80030
Golden Gate School of Lock Technology 3722 San Pablo Ave.,Oakland,CA,94608
Granton Institute of Technology
263 Adelaide St. West,Toronto Ont.,CANADA,M5H1Y3
416-977-3929 Fax:416-977-5612 INFO@GRANTONINSTITUTE.COM
Locksmith School (Res.) 3901 S. Meridian St.,Indianapolis,IN,46217
317-632-3979 Fax:17-784-2945
Locksmithing Institute of America 226 Fairfield Rd.,Fairfield,NJ,07004
(not at that address - probably defunct)
LTC Training Center (Cor.) P.O. Box 3583,Davenport,IA,52808-3583
800-358-9393 319-322-6669 Fax:319-324-7938
Messick Vo/Tech Center (Res.) 703 South Greer,Memphis,TN,38111
901-325-4840 Fax:901-325-4843
North Bennett Street School 39 North Bennett St.,Boston,MA,02113-1998
617-227-0155 Fax:617-227-9292
Pine Technical College (Res.,Web) 1000 4th St.,Pine City,MN,55063
800-521-7463 320-629-6764 320-629-7603 HECKMAN@PTC.TEC.MN.US
Professional Career Development Institute 3957 Parkway Lane,Norcross,GA,30092
Red Deer College Box 5005,Red Deer AB,Canada,T4N 5H5
403-342-3450 Fax:403-342-3576 SHAUN.LOVELL@RDC.AB.CA
School of Lock Technology (Res.) 1049 Island Ave.,San Diego,CA,92101
619-234-4512619-234-5937 GRAH@GRAHSECURITY.COM
School of Lock Technology - Orange (Res.) 302 W. Katella Ave.,Orange,CA,92667
714-633-1366 Fax: 714-633-0199
School of Lock Technology-Austin 509 Rio Grande St.,Austin,TX,78701
888-511-8874 512-473-8874 Fax:512-472-4838 OCOTHRON@AOL.COM
Southern Locksmith Training Institute 1387 Airline Drive,Bossier City,LA,71112
318-227-9458 318-746-1734
The Academy of Locksmithing 2220 Midland Ave. Unit 106,Scarborough
Ont.,Canada,M1P 3E6 888-272-8265 416-321-2220 Fax:416-321-5115 TAOL@PW.CA
Universal School of Master Locksmithing (Res., Cor.)
3201 Fulton Ave.,Sacramento,CA,95821 916-482-4216 Fax:916-485-9385
Sully Tools, Inc. auto entry tools
and Automotive Lock Institute car entry seminars
A list of "Locksmithing schools around the world" is at a site giving many locksmith links.
There is a general feeling that most of the correspondence courses give
limited and dated information which isn't sufficient to become a
locksmith, and that taking such a course may not even be an advantage in
getting a job in a real lock shop. However there are some courses (both
residential and correspondence) which have better reputations. One such
school is:
Lockmasters
5058 Danville Rd. Nicholasville, KY 40356
(606) 885-6041 800-654-0637 Fax:606-887-0810 EDUCATION@LOCKMASTERS.COM
American Security Distribution has a Certified Locksmith Training Program.
Tech-Train Productions Tools and Instruction for Professional Locksmiths
National Auto Lock Service auto locksmithing books and software
Some (no Some (not all) states in the US have licensing requirements. The California Dept. of Consumer Affairs lists the requirements and licenses locksmiths. CA requires not only the locksmith license (issued by the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services, but also a Contractors License (unless you only do small jobs,) category C-28 Locks and Security Hardware - with tests on trade skills and law/business required.
The ALOA provides information on Getting Started in Locksmithing
Someone starting up may have trouble in judging the time various tasks take, and hence in quoting a price. A "Flat Rate Manual", even a simple one, can be a big help. Joe points out, "It's a good tool for understanding the tradeoffs in your price structure." It can be used as a starting point, and then you can adjust prices as you see fit.
13b. How do I learn more about Master Keying?
Here are some references:
The Manual of Master Keying, by G.L. Finch available from The National
Locksmith and from his son.
Gerry Finch was highly regarded as a technical writer on locksmithing.
Info, Sales & Support: glfinch@ix.netcom.com
Fundamentals of Master Keying, by Jerome Andrews available from ALOA
Master Keying by the Numbers, by Billy Edwards available from Security
Resources
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of
Simplex locks. Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is
currently unavailable. However we have
a
copy available.
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a
Master Lock?
Not as far as anyone knows. I.e., the combination is not derived
from the serial number. You can buy code books with which
will tell you the combination for a given serial number, but these are
big rather expensive books that list (nearly) every lock.
However it may be possible to obtain the combination from Master Lock.
Additionally, John F. Bousquet <bousquet@crl.com> writes:
There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book. From the serial number you determine which of several progressions were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found. This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I bought one of these 20 page pocket Try out combination finders and never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.An inside view of a Master-type lock shows how it works.
And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the combination. On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top is raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it catches, that's the third number in the combination. On news locks with the recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch if you turn it while pulling on the shackle. Seven of these will catch between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that catch on a number. Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1, 11, 21, and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the third number in the combination.
This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can find the combination and open your lock. But then so can anyone with a pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer. These are three (US) dollar locks. They have many useful applications, but they are not high security locks. Plan your usage accordingly.
PLEASE don't post a question on alt.locksmithing giving a serial number and asking for the combination for that lock. Yes - there are books relating the two - but very few people will take you at your word that it is your own lock. Instead the most likely result is the start of a flame war!
17. What is the "shear line"?
Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body or
cylinder) of metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this
hole is horizontal. It is filled with a "plug" which is the part
which turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of
the plug actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the plug with the
key. There are some small vertical holes drilled in both the plug
and the fixed block so they match up - and they are in a straight
line which is the same line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber)
is filled with (at least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of
metal - except that the portion of the bottom pin which touches
the key is pointed) but the pins are of varying length, and there
is a spring at the top of the chamber so that the pins are pushed
away by the spring. The bottom pin is short enough so that it will
be pushed completely down within the plug and the top pin (imagining
right now there are just two pins - extra ones are only used for
master keying) goes from inside the top block to inside the plug.
Now the plug can't turn, because in each pin chamber there will be
a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line where the pin chamber
would "shear" apart when the plug turned.
You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are
made to "complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so
that all of the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line"
between the plug and the fixed block part of the lock. Then
the key can turn the plug around its axis and actuate whatever
internal mechanisms are inside.
Picking a
lock is a matter of raising the pins to the shear line, but
without the key.
18. What is "impressioning"?
Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out of
a key blank for the lock. The blank is filed to fit; the place and
amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
pin tumblers. The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks. The key
blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side to
side and rocked up and down. The blank is removed and inspected for
marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the tip
of the blank, or on the most prominent mark. (There are several systems
for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct way to
twist and rock.)
Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any mark on the blank and then move to the next pin. When the last cut is made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.
The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a key for that lock. But the process is slow and requires a fair amount of skill. With expert skill levels, the process is considerably faster. There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will mark the blank. The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you must start with a blank that fits the lock. (Or several blanks, as this doesn't always work the first time.) Impressioning may not be as quick and easy as picking the lock. Picking a lock often leaves tell-tale scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with impressioning.
A manual on impressioning by Mark Wanlass is available in the ftp archives of indra.com - ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/impressioning A web version is available at: http://www.gregmiller.net/locks/impress.html
19. What is a code? What is a codebook?
Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624? Those are called codes.
They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock. There
are three types of codes.
There are direct digit codes. Each digit corresponds to each cut on the key, the value of each digit tell how deep to make the cut. Schlage prints the code for the key directly on the key. These codes are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.
The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key. Often mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from the code, then cut the key).
The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook. There is no
pattern to the cuts on the keys. The Reed Codebooks are one of the
most common. There are 14 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit
cases, door locks) and 5 padlock volumes. Each volume is about 600
pages long. Several manufactures now selling computer programs that
contain all this information. The software is often copy-protected.
Here's information on several products - all have demo disks. Note that
features differ, and so different programs may appeal to different users.
The Slim Jim, a thin strip of metal with a notch cut at the bottom
side, slides down the passenger window into the door. The notch
tries to catch a rod running inside the door that connects the lock
and the lock buttons. Pulling on this rod pops the lock into the
open position. Many modern cars have the rod shielded from this
access. Most cars today have many wires running through
the doors to control such things as power windows, power locks,
heated side view mirrors, lighted key ways, and burglar alarms.
Some newer cars have airbags in the doors - setting them off is a very
dangerous and expensive mistake! The Slim Jim can snag one of these,
or a mechanical part and cause damage. Most locksmiths advise against
using a Slim Jim except on old cars. The pros often use wedges,
lights and manuals of parts locations to avoid damage and increase
their success rate.
WARNING: It is hard to open a safe which has been set to an unknown
combination or one which doesn't work. So be sure to exercise the new
combination several times with the door open before closing the door and
locking the safe.
Kwikset cylinder removal tool - cut from a piece of metal
_____________________________________ \ | /____________________________________|
Sheet-metal stock thickness: approx 1/16th inch.
Width (top to bottom in illustration): approx 7/16ths inch
Length (left to right in illustration): Whatever works;
official version is about 6 inches
Cutout end _broadens_ slightly, to approx 15/32nds inch
Notch in end is somewhere between semicircular and V (parabolic?)
and about 1/8 inch deep from points to bottom of curve.
Corners wind up being at about 40 degrees between
outside and inside edge, maybe a bit less.
Not very critical. The important thing is that there be two points at about the right spacing, with about the right inward slope, to engage and move the retainers towards the center.
If you need more detail than that, you should probably leave this
task to someone who has done it before, or at least get them to
give you a hands-on lesson. The only part that isn't Trivially
Obvious is the operation of the retainers, and the above should
be sufficient info for you to figure that out.
Some of the disadvantages are:
The alternative which has met with the most approval is to put a
picture on a Web page and post the URL in your alt.locksmithing post.
PhotoPoint is a site which offers
free service for this purpose. Another alternative is to post the binary
to alt.pictures or some other binary news.group and mention that.
There are some kinds of merchandise - safes, high-end
architectural locksets, and so on - where a customer really wants to
come in and "kick the tires" for a while. There are others which are
"impulse sale" items - stuff you wouldn't carry on a service call but
which they'd be interested in if they saw it on a display rack - or
which are just too big to haul around. And there are some items, and
accounts, where the customer really wants to know that you have a Fixed
Address, for various reasons; like it or not, a mobile shop is often
thought of as a transient rather than a Trustworthy Member of The Local
Business Community.
If you open a shop and just sell the same products and services you
would out of your trunk, it probably won't pay. If you can use it to
make a substantial amout of sales you wouldn't otherwise get, it
probably will.
Think about your local market, think about your possible shop locations,
think about whether you can get that leverage and whether you're willing
to make the investment in time, stock and personnel to make it pay off.
26. Should my business be a shop or a mobile unit (truck)?
When you reach the point of opening your own locksmith business (after
you have the locksmithing skills and business skills) this is an
important decision.Other online locksmithing related resources:
Locksmith fora
Glossary:
There is also a Dictionary for
Locksmiths being developed by the LIST Council which can be seen at
the Greater Philadelphia Locksmith Association Web site. The LIST
Council's latest draft of a Glossary is part of
their Dictionary for Locksmiths.
Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Malden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S. $100
minimum order on such sales.
Call for Catalog.
Steve Arnold's Gunroom (URL http://www.cyber-core.com/gunroom/) sells a
variety of pick sets, pick guns, and a small number of books. They will
handle foreign orders which are paid for by an international money order
in US currency.
Steve Arnold's Gun Room
PO Box 68
Dept. Net
Dexter,OR 97431
541 726-6360
possible e-mail amooooo@aol.com
Paolos.com (altlocksmithing@paolos.com) carries auto entry tools, lockpick sets, lockpicking tools and various other non-locksmithing items. Visa/MC, 30-day satisfaction, low-price guarantee.
Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, although the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]
Call for Catalog.
Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982
Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972
Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991
See Question 5 for some more book citations. A source of locksmithing
and general security books is:
IAHSSP Books
P. O. Box 2044
Erie, PA 16512-2044
Ph: (814) 868-0650
Their catalog is free; they stock lots of professional and
hard-to-find material; will sell to overseas customers.
See their Web site.
You can buy books on many topics from
Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368
800 380 2230 (for North America only)
(they ship internationally call 360 385 2230)
Fax 360 385 7785
When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo construction to techniques of execution. There is a $5 charge for their catalog.
("no longer carried?" means I couldn't find it in their current catalog)
# 52058 HOW TO CIRCUMVENT A SECURITY ALARM IN 10 SECONDS OR LESS An Insider's Guide to How It's Done and How To Prevent It by B. Andy 1994 88p. This revealing book explains in nontechnical detail how anyone can bypass a security alarm system in seconds, leaving you and your loved ones vulnerable to burglary or worse. Industry insider B. Andy points out the glaring weaknesses of such popular devices as contact switches, motion detectors, pressure pads and glass-break sensors, as well as the "ultimate circumvention technique" that will render even the most sophisticated systems useless. He also gives you a shocking look inside the security business - how the alarms are installed, how they're paid for, how they're monitored and how they're responded to. You may not like what you read. $12.00
#52056 HOW TO OPEN HANDCUFFS WITHOUT KEYS by Desert Publications (1979 48 pp) This book covers a selection of handcuffs in popular use today and discusses some of the features with which you should become familiar. Chapters include: Background on Handcuffs: Identification of Handcuffs; Materials, Tools & Equipment; Construction of Handcuff Picks & Shims; Lockpicking Techniques; Handcuff Keys; And more. $9.95
#52019 COMBINATION LOCK PRINCIPLES (1974, 25 pp) by Desert Publications These subjects are covered: The construction and names of parts; How to determine the combination by using code books; Reading an open lock; Drilling; Opening using a special fully explained method of manipulation; and more. $8.95
#52046 PICK GUNS Lock Picking for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths by John Minnery (1989, 128 pp.) This book gives an overview of the mechanical principles of pick guns, how they work and how to use them, and traces the development of the pick gun from its inception to today's revolutionary devices. Included are the original patents by Epstein, Segal, Moore, Cooke and others, as well as info on pick guns used by the FBI and intelligence agencies. Photos depict improvised pick guns designed by the author out of coat hangers and clothespins. $14.00
#52020 KEYS TO UNDERSTANDING TUBULAR LOCKS by Desert Publications (1974, 42pp) Subjects covered include: Internal construction; How to disassemble and rekey; How to open by drilling; How to open by picking; How to open by impressioning; How to make some of the necessary tools; and more. $9.95
#52057 EXPEDIENT B & E Tactics and Techniques for Bypassing Alarms and Defeating Locks by Carl Hammer (1992, 216 pp) An examination of the various types of locks and alarms, instructions for improvising lock picking tools, plus techniques for breaking into cars, opening file cabinets and desk drawers, cracking safes and circumventing various types of alarms and sensors. $20.00
#52055 SECURITY SYSTEMS SIMPLIFIED Protecting Your Home, Business, and Car with State-of-the-Art Burglar Alarms by Steve Hampton (1992, 128 pp) $14.00
#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price: $59.95 (may not be carried?)
#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95 (may not be carried?)
#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager (110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil, Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95
#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary investigation and its follow-up. Price: $16.95
#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990). Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price: $12.95
#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr) 1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers, the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world, two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths, rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie" tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95 (may not be carried?)
#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp 1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95
#52059 HOME WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS, by Eddie the Wire, $21.95 In step-by-step illustrated detail, eddie the wire tells you where to get the best materials to use for making your own professional lock picks - with no questions asked! Everything you need to know to make lifter picks, diamond picks, snake picks, tension wrenches, and more is revealed! How to make the best handles and carrying cases for your picks. Mass production techniques. Impressioning tools. Simulators. Using a computer to generate pick profiles. How to "case" a subdivision. And much more! 1996, 8 1/2 x 11, 128pp, 80 illustrations, soft cover. Paperback Published by Loompanics Unlimited January 1996 ISBN: 1559501367
#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988. Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home workshop. Price: $29.95 (may not be carried?)
#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway, see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95 (May not be carried?)
#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989). Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00 (may not be carried?)
#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time. Price: $10.00
#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS (VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the key. Price: $49.95 (may not be carried?)
#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp, 1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.95
(may not be carried?)
Paladin Press
P.O. Box 1307, Boulder, Colorado 80306
You might get the idea of what they sell (somewhat comparable to
Loompanics) by their own slogan "HOME OF THE ACTION LIBRARY"
800) 392-2400 Retail Credit Card Orders Only
(303) 443-7250 Wholesale Orders and Customer Service
(303) 442-8741 FAX
service@paladin-press.com -- Customer Service and Orders
sales@paladin-press.com -- Dealer Inquiries
editorial@paladin-press.com -- Editorial Queries
Here's a list of the locksmithing related books in their catalog:
COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING
by Eddie the Wire
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, 60 illus., 80 pp. $14.95
HOME WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS
by Eddie the Wire
128 pp. $21.95
HOW TO CIRCUMVENT A SECURITY ALARM
IN 10 SECONDS OR LESS
An Insider's Guide to How It's Done and How to Prevent It
by B. Andy
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 88 pp.
ISBN 0-87364-777-7....................$12.00
INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION or
IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT
by John Russell III
64 pp. ISBN 0-87364-233-3....................$10.95
LOCK PICKING SIMPLIFIED
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 20 pp. $8.50
LOCKS, PICKS, AND CLICKS
70 pp. ISBN 0-87364-040-3....................$10.00
PICK GUNS
Lock Picking for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths
by John Minnery
128 pp. ISBN 0-87364-510-3....................$14.00
SECRETS OF LOCK PICKING
by Steven Hampton
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 72 pp.
ISBN 0-87364-423-9....................$17.00
SECURITY SYSTEMS SIMPLIFIED
Protecting Your Home, Business, and Car with State-of-the-Art
Burglar Alarms
by Steven Hampton
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 128 pp. ISBN 0-87364-654-1 $14.00
EXPEDIENT B & E
Tactics and Techniques for Bypassing Alarms and Defeating Locks
by Carl Hammer
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 216 pp. ISBN 0-87364-688-6 $20.00
TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING
by Wayne B. Yeager
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 96 pp. $12.95
They also have half a dozen videos listed.
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.
Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).
There is a book The Visual Guide to Locksmithing has a heavily illustrated approach.
The Padlock Collector 6th edition 1996
Franklin M. Arlall (isbn 0-914638-05-x)
The Collector
PO Box 253
Claremont, CA 91711
This book has descriptions of over 2800 locks.
The First Internet Lock Museum
by Billy B. Edwards Jr., CML
Workshop Contents
In no particular order (the first person in some items is from the
original poster(s)):
WORKBENCH. must be solid enough to support a cheap key machine
HAMMERS. 1 claw, one 2 pounder, a couple of ball peens down to 6 ounces
SCREWDRIVERS various sizes, slot and phillips. nothing fancy-a good
pocket screwdriver for ms lock set screws
DRILL a cheap 3/8" is good for a beginner but should be reversible.
14.4V cordless w/extra battery. Variable speed pays for itself.
SQUARE. necessity when prepping doors
TAPE MEASURE
WRENCHES. decent small sized crescent, channel, needlenose, and a
couple of combo wrenches. Also some specialty types from the MFG. I keep
several different spanners like the one that comes with a SCH D80 Orbit, as
well as a Unican spanner. Also, a castle nut wrench like those supplied
with SCH heavy duty levers
ALLEN WRENCHES. A good hex key set is invaluable in addition to some
longer ones supplied by the MFG. Yale & Corbin use long ones for
convenience, but LORI deadbolts require them. The lori wrenches also
work for some old MS locks and DormaGlass bottom rail locks.
BITS. ordinary high speed steel will do for anything the newbie would
encounter. Should also have augers or paddle bits up to 1-1/4"unibit"
and a good rasp
HOLE SAW. 2-1/8 for sure, other sizes optional 1" for metal frames, 1 1/4
for mortise cyl, and one approp for cheaper deadbolts such as SCH B-160
CHISELS. nothing fancy but if you can find a 1-1/8 for mortising face
plates, great. good 1" and good 1/2". Keep an old one handy for beating.
FILES. I find the Nicholson 1/8" round chainsaw file to be really
handy and cheap for impressioning. A cheap set of needle files from Radio shack
is good too. I grind down one edge of the triangle file to supplement the
round file. Also should have a large mill bastard. Pippins are expensive and
I don't find them any more useful than the above. I use a 6" #2 swiss
and a 6"/10" warding bastard.
HACKSAW. Go with quality here, especially with blades. Even the best
blades are a low ticket item so no sense buying off-brands
DREMEL or equivelant. Even a newbie... ESPECIALLY a newbie should have
one for fabricating hard to find or one-off items. Get lots of the thin
cutoff wheels and a mandrel to hold them
GOGGLES. protect those eyes. Not much work for a blind locksmith.
DIAL CALIPER. much handier than a micrometer. I think the Pocket
Decoder by HPC is an excellent item to have on hand. I havn't touched my
micrometer in years.
VISE GRIPS assorted
CYLINDER SHIMS If he or she is new, better get a ton ;-)
FEELER GUAGE SET gives you lots of different thicknesses of shim stock
for padlock shimming, tool making, or spacing
PLUG FOLLOWERS can be home made. Nobody will notice Don't let them see
you using your keedex pin dumping follower, you'll never teach them that
it's cheating. Also, you'd need various types, unless you like driving
out roll pins. Accompany these tools with a real set of pin tweezers.
Maybe some eyebrow tweezers for when you keep them in the shop for 2 months
cutting keys and get shavings in their socks ;-)
VISE
HEMOSTATS lots of them. They can be modified into a number of useful
tools like snap ring pliers and pin tweezers. They can be bent, ground,
whatever, and economically discarded if you mess them up
MAGNIFYING GLASS
BASIC PICK SET no need for the big Crayola 64 color set. A beginner
usually has time to make anything in this category anyway. A couple of
extractors and a plug spinner.
VARIOUS TURNING TOOLS other than regular old tension wrenches. A
feather touch can be handy when raking or reverse picking spool equipped
locks, and I really like two-prong style tools for general picking.
CHEAP SET OF TUBULAR PICKS like the HPC "Peanut" or equivelant. I
hate the peanut. I use a good one with adjustable tension.
LUBRICANT
MAGIC MARKER
ELECTRICAL TAPE great aid in holding hinge shims, as well as more advanced
stuff not outfitted for here
STEP LADDER
TOOL BAG/POUCH the "Gator Mouth" tool bag is getting very popular now
VACUUM dirt devil or the like for cleaning up after drilling doors.
Also an old tarp for collecting the majority of shavings.
LUGGAGE CART great for hauling tools & supplies, and if you're in a lobby
in a commercial property--they're less likely to bitch at you than if you
had a cart or hand truck. Also, luggage carts fold up and store neatly on
the truck.
SUBSCRIPTION to one of the trade rags. Pref. TNL. NPC has a horrible
reputation for customer service, plus they no longer publish most of
their most valuable books. (the books are still advertised by ALOA though)
NPC is crap, again my personal opinion.
BOOKS. all you can afford, but starting with a couple of basic texts by
Roper or Phillips. Knowledge is more valuable than any physical tool.
A collection of back issues no longer needed by an established smith is
good, too. More specific books should reflect particular areas of interest
or specialization, like AUTO-SMART etc and should be bought fairly early
on.
BASIC SET OF CAR TOOLS True, you can easily make most of the standard
wire tools, but good to have a "store-bought" set of the more popular ones
to copy.
COMPUTER AND INTERNET CONNECTION This is becoming very nearly a necessity,
and once a beginner is "in the circle", he has the benefit of the sum total
experience and knowledge of a widely varied group of locksmiths as well as
access to reference works he can't afford yet, like up-to-date codes.
PIN TRAY can be made from a piece or corrugated rubber mat
PLUG HOLDER can be made from an old mortise cylinder
C-CLAMPS
ASSORTED BLANKS
FLASHLIGHT I like a mini mag-light myself. The mini-mini mag is -50
dia, and can be used as an emergency follower. It's lighted too.
CAR OPENING LIGHT AND WEDGES
CODE BOOKS if a fairly up to date used set can be had cheaply. The expense
of code software is a good one to put off for a year or so if the newbie
has friends with books or software, unless he finds himself cutting by
code at least once a day.
KEY MACHINE I am gonna go out on a limb here and get controversial. I
think a used FB machine is a decent first machine for a budget minded utter
beginner with a low work load. The stock machine has micrometer depth
adjustment, and they make an add-on micrometer spacing attachment. Cutting
by the numbers therefore is do-able on the same machine the newbie
duplicates on. Yeah its a pretty cheesy little machine, but good training
for the beginner since it enforces the wise practice of checking adjustments
daily on the primary machine. These machines regularly go used for under a
hundred bucks, and a brand new spacing attachment is only $49.95 and
direct reading digital for a hundred bucks more. As for using the factory
supplied spacing keys, forget it. The hassle, versus the low cost of a spacing
attachment is just not worth it. I have done it both ways and the
micrometer add-on wins hands down.
Did I forget anything? Oh yeah a SERVICE VEHICLE. The family station wagon
or a pickup with a topper will do until a real van is financially do-able.
PISTOL. Only half joking, especially when doing night calls. I would rather
feel stupid for carrying it and never needing it, than to feel stupid for
ever needing it but not having it. ALTERNATIVELY, in more left-wing
liberal areas where only the bad guys are allowed to have guns, a can of
pepper spray.
ONE MORE THING... DIGITAL CAMERA. Great for archiving locks encountered on
jobs, especially safe locks and boltworks, and for reference pics when
asking old-timers for advice. Another possible use... taking pics of
customers without ID or taking pics of their drivers license. This is
kinda optional, but if you always wanted an excuse to get one anyway......
Credit & Thanks
The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by spike@indra.com
spike@indra.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and hes@ncsu.edu (Henry
Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by sanguish@digifix.com
(Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to English by
eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments, criticisms, and
compliments to "alt-locksmithing-faq@indra.com".
The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Thanks to:
Indra's Net -- Internet Access with an Attitude
Email: info@indra.com URL: http://www.indra.com
Modem: (303) 786-7405 Voice: (303) 546-9151
for providing host facilities.